Author Topic: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat  (Read 185 times)

Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« on: September 15, 2020, 10:09:21 AM »
I have consumed just about every post relating to a better hi hat set up for my dm10 pro with smart trigger cymbals.
I just need direction. The Roland VH11 seems to be the consensus king but still iffy on integration with the module. I have tried to calibrate my surge hi hat numerous times and it will not work with the pedal. I would prefer a traditional hi hat stand going forward.
I like the look of the surge from smart trigger
Id it beat to just stick with a strike pro hhat and stay in the family ?

Thx for any help

Beginning drummer

Offline Chaser

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2020, 08:22:51 PM »
I have consumed just about every post relating to a better hi hat set up for my dm10 pro with smart trigger cymbals.
I just need direction. The Roland VH11 seems to be the consensus king but still iffy on integration with the module. I have tried to calibrate my surge hi hat numerous times and it will not work with the pedal. I would prefer a traditional hi hat stand going forward.
I like the look of the surge from smart trigger
Id it beat to just stick with a strike pro hhat and stay in the family ?

Thx for any help

Beginning drummer

I presume you have the original DM10 module...
The Surge Cymbals were used with the Realhat pedal (linear/softpot)
The Surge Cymbal is just a trigger..it either works or it doesn't.You could use a drum pad for a Hi Hat if you wanted to.
The Realhat pedal is what gets calibrated as the Voices(open-closed) are determined by pedal position/pressure.

Are you getting a Calibration error message?..Are you getting "process is complete" message after completing a step ?
Since you may be new to e-drums , this type of pedal requires a little "finesse" to get use to the amount of pressure for the open - close range.

You do not get the full range of motion of the pedal..there is a gap from the time you start pressing down to when you actually start applying pressure.
Hi-Hat Calibration-Troubleshooting Common Trigger Problems

     Calibrate the hi-hat pedal:
     
        Connect the hi-hat pedal to the module but do not press it down.
        On the module, press EXT TRIG.
        Use the CURSOR UP / DOWN buttons to highlight the Input field at the top of the screen
        Then use the VALUE UP / DOWN buttons or VALUE DIAL to select HiHat.
        Press CAL (F4).
        With the hi-hat pedal completely raised ("open"), press OPEN (F1) and wait for a message saying the process is complete.
        With the hi-hat pedal completely pressed ("closed"), press CLOS (F2) and wait for a message saying the process is complete.
         
    If Hi-Hat is still not working as expected, even after open/close calibration:
     
        Connect the hi-hat pedal to the module but do not press it down.
        On the module, press EXT TRIG.
        Use the CURSOR UP / DOWN buttons to highlight the Input field at the top of the screen
        Then use the VALUE UP / DOWN buttons or VALUE DIAL to select HiHat.
        Press TRIM (F3). Use the CURSOR UP / DOWN buttons to select Open or Closed and use the VALUE UP / DOWN buttons or VALUE DIAL to adjust
        the setting.                 
        Pro Tip: Increasing the "Closed" value makes it easier to close the hi-hat or "choke" it.

If you are still having issues...

What is the firmware version currently in the module..check to see if it has the Final Versions of Firmware.

FINAL VERSIONS
DM10 Firmware Updates [posted 9/22/2014]
DM10 Updater 1.00
DM10_boot_v1.00h.syx
DM10-app-v1.00s.syx
DM10_triggers_V1.00a.syx (use with real hat pedal)
DM10_triggers_V1.01b.syx (use with Alesis Pro-X hi hat)
DM10_sound_rom-V1.03.syx..

Are you using Mesh Heads or Mylar Heads..there is different firmware/default settings for kits depending on Heads and Hi Hat.

Make sure you select correct kit for default Trigger Settings..MYLAR HEADS=DM10 STUDIO or DM10X (NOT DM10 Studio or DM10X MESH)

The STRIKE Hi Hat is dual zone and uses the same controller as the Pro-X(FSR) which was single zone.
To use a FSR Controller you will need the Pro-X firmware.
Once you update to the FSR..you can't downgrade the module back to the linear/softpot Realhat.(There is a risky method)

VH-11 uses an optical sensor...

Another option to keep the Surge Cymbal,Realhat firmware and use a Hi Hat stand... GoEdrum now has a Hi Hat controller specifically for Alesis.
There used to be just one version (GHC/Roland) and users would make it work..now there are 3..Roland(GHC),Alesis (GHC-AN) and Yamaha(GHC-Y)

Goedrum GHC-AN

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2020, 12:07:28 AM »
Hugely helpful.....really
Thank you

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2020, 11:07:49 AM »
Chaser, will that calibration process work on the DM10 MKII Pro module?

Offline Chaser

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2020, 12:06:55 PM »
Chaser, will that calibration process work on the DM10 MKII Pro module?

There is no mention of Hi Hat Calibration in either manual ..DM10 MKII Pro or DD638DX..
There is no mention of settings in the DM10 MKII Pro User Guide
However there may be Pedal adjustments...check under the Hi Hat and see if they are there..
pic attached

Editing Trigger Parameters
1.Press Trigger to enter the trigger interface page.
2.Hit  the  pad  whose  voice  you  want  to  edit.  The  pads  name  will  appear  at  the  top  of  the  display. Alternatively, use the Down or Up buttons to select the pads name at the top of the display, and then use the dial to change it.
3.The display will show the current trigger and its parameters.
On this page: To  select  a  parameter  that  you  want  to  edit,  use  the  Down  and  Up  buttons  (not  all  parameters are available for all pads):

After editing, press [F3 (ENTER)] to save, otherwise, the edited data will be lost after power off.

EDIT:
There are some simple modifications that may be helpful if you want to take out the gap/deadzone out of the travel of the RealHat pedal before making adjustments in the settings.
There were different versions of the RealHat pedal..mainly the pieces that press down on the rubber actuator.
RealHat pedal Travel Mods

« Last Edit: September 16, 2020, 12:54:54 PM by Chaser »

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2020, 03:42:32 PM »
Chaser
I have the original mylar pads.  I may move to mesh but my skill level is not at a point where it is a big deal.

I went ahead and bought the Goedrum unit you recommended. Coming from China so will be here in 6 weeks ;)
Im just going to get a hi hat stand off craigs list here locally. Is there one that would be better than another? Seems they all look the same.

My biggest thing was whether to get the L80 hi hat for feel as a beginner but I was just not sure I could make it work with my module.

I like your simple solution with the hi hat stand.
Will let everyone know how it goes.

SB


Offline AlanK

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2020, 11:01:45 AM »
hi Tebby, for the hi hat stand, one thing I'd consider is if you plan on using a double kick pedal because if you will you may want to buy a 2 legged hi hat stand.. you won't have that 3rd leg getting in the way :)
DM10X with Addictive Drums 2, Pro X hi-hat, 4 crashes, 682 white mesh cone conversion, Laurin Drums snare and kick, Mapex P710W double kick pedal, Tama saddle, Panasonic noise cancelling headphones, Behringer 8 channel USB mixer, Tascam 144MK AI, Samson Expedition Escape powered speakers

Offline Chaser

Re: Original Surge DM10 pro hi hat
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2020, 09:11:59 PM »
ChaserI have the original mylar pads.I may move to mesh but my skill level is not at a point where it is a big deal.
 
Doing the Mesh conversion isn't so much about skill level as it is for acoustics.The Mylar heads are loud compared to mesh.

I went ahead and bought the Goedrum unit you recommended. Coming from China so will be here in 6 weeks
 
6 weeks..."ouch"
The Alesis controller has only been around for less than a year , but I seen almost a 1,000 sales.I had forgotten the US site closed down.The difference between the Roland/Alesis controllers is the 35mm slide potentiometer.The Roland is 20kOHM as is a majority of the Roland Hi Hats.I still have a couple of those I haven't converted yet.I haven't owned the Yamaha so I can't accurately state what the difference is.I attached a pic to give you an idea of internals.There is a slot cut into the plunger/spring housing.The Slde pot arm goes into it...

Here is a topic with a lot of info on Hi Hats.

How to improve STRIKE Hi Hat

Im just going to get a hi hat stand off craigs list here locally. Is there one that would be better than another? Seems they all look the same.

As Alan mentioned..2 or 3 leg.I have put legless on a few builds without crosstalk issues.Depends on the rack and space.I would also watch for height.Some Acoustic stands are very tall and when you shorten the stand/adjustment they have a real long rod sticking up.I have a couple Heavy Duty remote stands that are wayyyy too long as far as the rod goes.
 
My biggest thing was whether to get the L80 hi hat for feel as a beginner but I was just not sure I could make it work with my module.

You would need to convert the L80 to a trigger and dampen it with a mute ring.
Here is a topic for the L80

 Zildjian L80 A to E conversion
« Last Edit: September 18, 2020, 09:28:14 PM by Chaser »