Author Topic: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks  (Read 22327 times)

Greg

  • Guest
Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #25 on: June 10, 2013, 12:14:45 PM »
Thanks for the info. I imagine it is strange gigging with e-drums and mistakes will be made. I worry if the rack itself would hold up long-term. If I was to gig live with my dm8 pro, I think I would upgrade to a Gibraltar rack first. Or at least carry a couple rolls of duct tape with me, LOL... I just don't trust plastic fittings. ;)

Offline Rocket2112

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #26 on: June 20, 2013, 09:01:00 AM »
For my personal stage sound, I use the Simmons DA-50. It is not bad and I actually I have found if I have a wall close to my back, I point the speaker at the wall for a fuller sound. They also go through the monitors.

I do pump the mains from the module out to the mixer. While I can't hear the drums out front for obvious reasons, people have told me they sound great.
I did the 682Drums no soldering upgrade. See my photos here: http://www.dmdrummer.com/index.php?topic=3683.msg31354#msg31354

Offline Whitman_86

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2013, 05:22:07 PM »
An interesting trick I discovered by accident; pressing the stop button on the module after striking any trigger kills the sound immediately. Choke anything at anytime. Nice especially on that last crash of a song that tends to linger a second too long.:D
Whitman

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #28 on: September 12, 2017, 11:11:18 PM »
I have two of these Tactix cases from Bunnings..



https://www.bunnings.com.au/tactix-60l-heavy-duty-storage-box_p2583691

In one I put the DM10 module, and all the leads and power supplies for my mixer, DM10 and Sample Rack and fold back and extension leads and stick bag and snare drum stand and you name it.

In the other i have 2 of our 4 light lighting racks.

They are a good size, stack nicely and just big enough so as not to get too heavy.

Offline nickap

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #29 on: December 21, 2017, 01:41:45 PM »
I've been playing gigs with my DM10 Studio Pro kit for a while, and there is one thing that bugs me about it ... I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. I have my own custom made snake (see http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6071.msg42479#msg42479) that is more-or-less permanently attached to the frame, and that works out great - I remove all the pads and cymbals, put them in a large, wheeled duffel bag - all the pads are marked with colored paint dots so they can be matched up again later with the correct spot on the frame. Then I take the frame, with the module and the Gen16 controller still wired and attached, and put the whole thing in my van, along with the bag of pads etc. and the various additional pieces (bag with Gen16 cymbals, kick drum assembly etc.). Here's where the problem comes in; I've tried folding the frame as much as I can, or putting it in the van basically exactly as it is set up in my studio - but no matter what I do, at least one joint ends up coming disconnected, or one of the arms becomes twisted, or whatever. So my setup at the gig, which should be very quick and easy with the wiring and module in place and everything color-coded, involves a considerable amount of work with a drum key, unfastening and re-fastening joints, wrestling with various pieces of the frame that have twisted out of alignment and so on. Does anyone know of a way to simplify this process, or avoid it altogether? One option might be to upgrade to a better frame - possible a Gibraltar rack or something like that - but that's a pretty big investment. Might be worth it though. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #30 on: December 21, 2017, 08:28:19 PM »
I've been playing gigs with my DM10 Studio Pro kit for a while, and there is one thing that bugs me about it ... I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. I have my own custom made snake (see http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6071.msg42479#msg42479) that is more-or-less permanently attached to the frame, and that works out great - I remove all the pads and cymbals, put them in a large, wheeled duffel bag - all the pads are marked with colored paint dots so they can be matched up again later with the correct spot on the frame. Then I take the frame, with the module and the Gen16 controller still wired and attached, and put the whole thing in my van, along with the bag of pads etc. and the various additional pieces (bag with Gen16 cymbals, kick drum assembly etc.). Here's where the problem comes in; I've tried folding the frame as much as I can, or putting it in the van basically exactly as it is set up in my studio - but no matter what I do, at least one joint ends up coming disconnected, or one of the arms becomes twisted, or whatever. So my setup at the gig, which should be very quick and easy with the wiring and module in place and everything color-coded, involves a considerable amount of work with a drum key, unfastening and re-fastening joints, wrestling with various pieces of the frame that have twisted out of alignment and so on. Does anyone know of a way to simplify this process, or avoid it altogether? One option might be to upgrade to a better frame - possible a Gibraltar rack or something like that - but that's a pretty big investment. Might be worth it though. Does anyone have any thoughts?


Your modified cable snake (which I think is a great idea btw, and on my to do list) looks much easier to handle than the original snake. I mean why go to all the trouble to make a better snake, if you are just going to leave it on the rack?

I still use the original snake and move my kit to gigs and rehearsal. The snake stay connected only to the module. 

So, pack up for me is unplug all the drums etc and take them off. Now lift the cable snake off and the module and gently wrap the entire snake around the module. Then put the bundle on a towel and wrap the lot up. Then put the bundle in a case.

Setting up I attach the module and put the snake where it needs to be. That takes something like 30 seconds to do. Then I just need to put the the pads on and plug them in.

Offline rhysT

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #31 on: December 25, 2017, 04:11:22 PM »
I've tried folding the frame as much as I can, or putting it in the van basically exactly as it is set up in my studio - but no matter what I do, at least one joint ends up coming disconnected, or one of the arms becomes twisted, or whatever. So my setup at the gig, which should be very quick and easy with the wiring and module in place and everything color-coded, involves a considerable amount of work with a drum key, unfastening and re-fastening joints, wrestling with various pieces of the frame that have twisted out of alignment and so on. Does anyone know of a way to simplify this process, or avoid it altogether?

Maybe try another Dobly mod to make the rack joints more secure and stop them twisting: http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=7446.msg50109#msg50109
« Last Edit: December 25, 2017, 11:57:27 PM by rhysT »

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #32 on: March 10, 2018, 07:43:02 PM »
I pack up my module for transport and use one of the velcro straps that came with the kit to hold the end of the snake.

The rack folds up really nice and flat - then I use two of those straps velcroed together (to make one long strap) on each end to tie the legs in, so it stays flat like that as a carry it around, without having to tighten all of the clamps back up all the way.

Alesis DM10X Mesh

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #33 on: March 10, 2018, 07:47:21 PM »
I'm still going to perform Dobly's Mod, as rhysT points out above, to keep them from twisting, along with the future mod I want to do, which is to buy another mesh kit (DM10 MKII or Command Mesh, I'm thinking) and using the included rack to add the second brace to the sides of the rack the same as what I have on the front of the DM10X. I notice that they don't double up on the front anymore.
Alesis DM10X Mesh

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: DM10 Gig Tips and Tricks
« Reply #34 on: March 10, 2018, 07:57:35 PM »
I also wanted to add:

I really like your CAT7 Snake mod!

I find that, since I'm always hooking up the snake to the module, that I really have it down now, where each color goes. I almost don't even have to look at it anymore!

Leaving the module on the rack during transport would kill my nerves. Too many things could go wrong for me - broken cables or their ends, broken module and/or the mounting bracket and/or the clamp that holds it onto the rack... it's just too easy for me to mount/dismount the module to not do it for my precious DM10! But that's me.
Alesis DM10X Mesh