Thanks. This statement kind of concerns me. "Nitro module doesn't have all the abilities/options in the trigger settings that the more advanced modules have to help address all the issues you may encounter."
I read others have done this using a Yamaha DTX 500. Isn't the Nitro newer and better than that? What settings do you think I will be missing and what module would work better without spending alot?
The NITRO isn't "New".The name was changed when Alesis dropped the "DM" from all the modules except for the "DM6 NITRO" and "DM10" series , which actually the original DM10 has a lot more abilities/settings than the MKII models. it just became dated on the sounds and the single zone Hi Hat.The DM6 NITRO module is similar if not the same as the NITRO mesh other than probably new firmware for the Mesh.Some say it was the DM7X since the photos on the product page actually showed DM7X on the back of the module.
The DM6 is over 10 years old.It's actually a rebranded Medeli.
The trend over the past few years changed as everyone wanted mesh/cone,a more "acoustic" look, and the ability to load their own samples.The entry level modules were updated to mesh > the intermediate models added multiple zones, mesh/sample loading > the top end added multiple samples and layering and more.
The triggers that are included with Kits were specifically setup for that module in a lot of cases there is a pcb board with a specific setup , not just a piezo or a switch to a jack, which is why you'll see in nearly every post from an Alesis Rep when asked about trigger compatibility "will this cymbal/tom work with my kit".. the response is.."It may work but is not officially supported"
The NITRO is single zone triggers... open/closed HiHat..basic settings,whereas advanced modules have multiple zones with a continuous/variable HiHat and more advanced options/settings including Retrigger,XTalk Rcv..XTalk Send.(instead of just a single cross talk setting.) Velocity and other settings like changing the trigger type from Piezo to switch that help adapt other triggers and you can dial the module in better.
The amount of adjustment will depend on how you build your triggers..Piezo size..directly mounted..proximity to other triggers etc.
It's going to be difficult to get a consistent hit on a Piezo/trigger box with your foot as just changing shoe type will affect it along with different Velocity Curves.I would check the manual and see if you can set the Curve to Constant,then the Piezo/trigger box would act more like a switch.You can't build switch boxes as the module doesn't have the ability to change the trigger type from Piezo to Switch.
As far as Yamaha goes..for the most part their triggers/wiring etc are proprietary..the modules interpret the signal completely different than Alesis or Roland and as far as having something in common...the triggers have a "Piezo"
When it's DYI it's all trial and error..build your triggers set it up and go from there.
It's not a matter of will the Piezo boxes work..it's getting them to work well..
EDIT:
After doing some checking..there isn't a "constant" setting for the Velocity Curve in this module....Set Velocity Curve to 6
"Very little dynamic response, making it easy to maintain strong volume levels. If using drum triggers, these settings help maintain stable levels."