Hello everyone,
First, I'd like to thank Gerdy and Hellfire for such detailed instructions on their solutions! I would never had tried any modifications on my pads without them.
I've been following this thread and thought I'd share the results of my experimentations. I played around with several methods (based on Gerdy's) to get the 12" pads (from my DM10X kit) to perform as good as the 8" and 10" pads converted using the Hellfire method. My biggest challenge was finding an inexpensive and readily available foam to use with Gerdy's method, and the other problem I had was getting the sensitivity needed in the pads for the lighter hits and ghost notes. Hellfire's method (including the removal of the circuit board or transistor) worked like a dream on the smaller pads. Here's how I managed to get the same feel and performance from the 12" pads:
Materials:
Craft Foam sheets:
Quantity: 1 sheet per pad
I purchased a 12 pack of 11.8" x 17.7" sheets for about $5.00 US
Grey Foam Sheets:
Quantity: 1 1/2 sheets per pad
Frost King 15" x 24" x 3/16" window air conditioner filter - about $1.00 US per sheet (at Home Depot or Lowes)
This foam is very similar to the speaker foam and easy to find (in the USA)
This method cost me about $2.00 US per pad.
The method:
1. Similar to Hellfire's method, remove the small circuit board (using a soldering iron) from the 1/4" jack. See Hellfire's instructions. I found this was the only key to getting the ghost notes and lighter hits to trigger. Usual disclaimers of voiding warranty, burning fingers, etc, etc. :-)
2. Remove the stock grey foam from under the metal reflection plate. The foam on my pads was easy enough to stretch around the reflection plate, but can also be removed while desoldering the wires in step 1. As in Gerdy's method, this stock foam is not used, but do save it in case...
3. Cut the grey air filter foam as in Gerdy's method: 1 solid circle, and 2 circles with a hole in the center. I had no need put the straight cut through to the center and left them as a full donut shape.
4. Cut one circle out of the craft foam the same size as the grey foam circles in step 2. I then added a straight cut from the side of the circle towards the center. This cut only needs to go to about 2" from the side of the circle.
Arrange the stacking in the pad similar to Gerdy's method, but with the additional craft foam circle at the bottom (similar to Hellfire's method). Here's the order listed from top to bottom:
1 layer solid circle of grey air filter foam (top of the stack)
Metal reflection plate with it's attached grey foam up (and piezo down).
2 layers of donut shaped grey air filter foam
1 layer of solid circle of craft foam (bottom of the stack)
- place the craft foam so that the wire from the piezo can pass through the cut.
NOTE: I added the craft foam at the bottom to give some added stability to the very squishy filter foam. I have not tested this exact method without the craft foam, but I worry (over time) the plastic ribs in the bottom of the pad will flatten the filter foam.
Before reassembling, you may want to plug it in and tap near the piezos to test that both the rim and head sensors are triggering. If all's well, reassemble and enjoy! BTW, I used Remo Silentstroke mesh heads, but any mesh head should do.
Note: As with any mod, the trigger settings will most likely need adjusting. I had to adjust the retriggering and crosstalk among others. Here's what I have for my 12" snare pad:
Head:
Sensitivity: 10
Xtalk Rcv: 02
Xtalk And: 02
ReTrigger: 04
Threshold: 29
VelCurve: LOG2
Rim:
Sensitivity: 20
Xtalk Rcv: 05
Xtalk And: 05
ZoneXtalk: 06
VelCurve: LOG2
I hope these findings will help others get their pads converted successfully. The mods made the feel, performance and quietness of my pads FAR superior to the stock pads.
Best regards,
Matt