Author Topic: Strike ride cymbal repair  (Read 856 times)

Strike ride cymbal repair
« on: September 14, 2021, 08:36:16 AM »
Hi to everybody!
I'm trying to repair a Strike 16" ride cymbal which has the bell dead!
I opened it and the bell membrane is totally dead...
Do anyone knows if there is a way to get the bell membrane from any online store? Or should I ask directly to a local Alesis support?

Thanks!!

Offline Chaser

Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2021, 01:31:55 PM »
Hi to everybody!
I'm trying to repair a Strike 16" ride cymbal which has the bell dead!
I opened it and the bell membrane is totally dead...
Do anyone knows if there is a way to get the bell membrane from any online store? Or should I ask directly to a local Alesis support?

Thanks!!

There is no replacement membrane switch available and Alesis doesn't repair them.
You can try support but response (if any) time varies...if it's a warranty claim that would probably get a better response.

All the STRIKE cymbals (including NIB) I have repaired with bad bells (only cymbal without a Bell is the 12") ..it is not the membrane switch..it is the membrane switch connector to the PCB.Some were poorly soldered like a cold solder or raised off the board and were loose... some had the traces lifted/broke off the PCB and I had to solder jumper wires.Remove the nuts off the jacks the PCB will slide out then flip over..see if it is obviously loose.. otherwise connect the cables and wiggle the bell connector as you tap the membrane.If you re-solder be careful as in order to get the solder hot enough to flow the traces may lift or burn off...the PCB board isn't a very good quality.


Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2021, 02:45:40 AM »
Hi Chaser!
Thanks a lot for this information!
Anyway, unfortunately, the flat cable is broken so there is anything I can do to repair it!
I also tried to re-sold it but the solder destroyed totally the flat! So... is gone!
Now, I think that the only way to not throw this cymbal away is to use it as crash, but I have to modify the wiring in order to exclude the bell zone and to deactivate one of the two TRS connectors...
Do you have any idea on how wire it to use it as a crash only?
Thanks man!!

Offline Chaser

Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2021, 09:37:49 AM »
Hi Chaser!
Thanks a lot for this information!
Anyway, unfortunately, the flat cable is broken so there is anything I can do to repair it!
I also tried to re-sold it but the solder destroyed totally the flat! So... is gone!
Now, I think that the only way to not throw this cymbal away is to use it as crash, but I have to modify the wiring in order to exclude the bell zone and to deactivate one of the two TRS connectors...
Do you have any idea on how wire it to use it as a crash only?
Thanks man!!

That's too bad.....the membrane switches are hard to work with they cannot be removed without being destroyed and once they become separated or broken and constant contact they are finished.
I attached an image of what happens with a Heavy Hitter and a 12" Hi Hat ...broken edge and separated switch..
The STRIKE switches use a conductive type paint and are similar to FSR switches

You don't need to rewire..use a dummy plug or a 3.5mm to 1/4" (6.35mm)Headphone adapter..attached

EDIT:
I forgot to mention...since you have the cymbal apart do a tape job...you'll notice a big improvement.
There is around a .030 gap from the top rubber (there is a raised section for contacting the membrane switch) to the switch before it makes contact which means you have to hit hard and accurate which is difficult with the thick rubber.
There are also a large number of Factory kits in the STRIKE module..in particularly the Ride which have only one articulation assigned to the edge
and it's at 127 velocity range.
You'll also notice an indentation/crease from wear will start to show over time..you'll see it on kits that get a lot of use.
The tape job closes the gap and you'll notice the cymbal levels out and you can use the shoulder or side of the stick instead of trying to hit with the tip or flipping the stick over to hit with the end.

This tape is exactly the same width as the membrane switch and is 1/2' x .007 thick..I have done 4 passes (=.028) and had no problem with it choking on its own. (attached)
« Last Edit: September 15, 2021, 10:39:29 AM by Chaser »

Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2021, 09:51:30 AM »
Hi Chaser!

Thank you very much! You are the man!!
I tested the cymbal as crash and it works normally, just needs a 1/4 jack plugged in the secondary TRS connector and it's done!

Now I have a question for the tape application on the edge membrane switch, basically what I need to do is just to apply 3-4 tape passes on the top (black plastic), no need to remove the black top plastic, correct?
Sorry for this question... maybe dummy!

Thanks a lot man!!!!

Offline Chaser

Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2021, 11:28:14 AM »
Hi Chaser!

Thank you very much! You are the man!!
I tested the cymbal as crash and it works normally, just needs a 1/4 jack plugged in the secondary TRS connector and it's done!

Now I have a question for the tape application on the edge membrane switch, basically what I need to do is just to apply 3-4 tape passes on the top (black plastic), no need to remove the black top plastic, correct?
Sorry for this question... maybe dummy!

Thanks a lot man!!!!

Just right on top of the membrane switch....it is the same width.. make sure no air bubbles or creases..use a pair of scissors don't try to tear the tape when you get to the end.....do not remove the membrane switch or peel off the top...the previous photo above that shows the hi hat with a separated switch is what happens when the switch fails.The top membrane piece is a little larger so when glued to the bottom it has a slight bow which allows separation so it only makes contact when pressed (struck or squeezed).
4 passes works well and if there were any tolerance differences between manufacturing batches you'll know as the edge will either start misfiring or stay choked from the membrane switch being closed or close to it and you just peel off one layer of tape.

EDIT:
I have been meaning to test 5...I just did a 5th pass (layer) on 6 cymbals (2)16" Rides..(2)14" Crashes and (2)12" (Hi hat used for splash etc) and it was not too much pressure on the switch to continuously choke the cymbal.. (1) 12" 5 passes(layers) was borderline and you could hear the edge starting to misfire as the switch was nearing the point of being closed otherwise they work extremely well and actually more sensitive than the Bow so if needed the sensitivity for the edge may need adjustment.
I have Trigger settings at Bow=70...Edge=50..the default setting I believe was at around 30 so that might be usable now but it will vary by user to user playing style.
The noticeable indentation you could feel is almost completely gone and choking requires very little effort.
As mentioned before it may vary cymbal to cymbal if any tolerances changed from batches/manufacturing..shrinkage etc..
« Last Edit: September 16, 2021, 02:15:02 PM by Chaser »

Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2022, 02:52:36 AM »
Quick question on this great treads... I would like to get more constant ''Edge'' out of my STRIKE Dual Hi Hat and I would like to do the tape trick... What about the glue? you add more glue when you re-assemble? If yes, what kind have you used? or the old glue will still do the job?

I would like to add better choke response to my Alesis DM10 MKII Pro cymbals, have you tried it on those too?

Thanks and have a nice day!

Offline Chaser

Re: Strike ride cymbal repair
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2022, 11:01:02 AM »
Quick question on this great treads... I would like to get more constant ''Edge'' out of my STRIKE Dual Hi Hat and I would like to do the tape trick... What about the glue? you add more glue when you re-assemble? If yes, what kind have you used? or the old glue will still do the job?

I would like to add better choke response to my Alesis DM10 MKII Pro cymbals, have you tried it on those too?

Thanks and have a nice day!

The STRIKE Cymbals all have a very thin Industrial double sided tape...underneath the outer edge and the center.
The tape under the rim isn't as durable as the tape in the center , but the rubber caps lip is very strong very thick so it goes back and stays in place , pretty much without it.
I use auto trim tools , which have a wide blade you work in between the rubber cap and the cymbal..gently pry up on the rubber cap and fold over the cymbal edge.I don not recommend using a metal screwdriver.The blade is too narrow and you risk breaking the lip because of the tapes strength and metal vs plastic.
After releasing the rubber cap and folding over the edge.(The process will remind you of changing a bicycle tire..if anyone even does that these days.) Pull back with even pressure and the tape should remain in place.Then flip the cymbal over and apply even pulling towards the center as you pull back.You'll hear a loud ripping sound when it lets go as the plastic cymbal magnifies the sound.
It is more difficult to pull the rubber cap 1/2 way back then tape than it is to remove the entire rubber cap.If it seem the cap is stuck while pulling or the tape starts to come up with it..rotate and pull from another direction.Some cymbals there is a point where the rubber cap releases smoothly.. almost immediately..depends on the cymbal size.
The tape is reusable (keep it as clean as possible..it attracts everything) and you'll find if you let the cap fall back into place at any time it will adhere as strong as before.

During taping go slow and press down..if you stretch the tape over time it will eventually revert back to original length.
I have opened up after a period of time and noticed it on some of the 1st cymbals I knew I stretched the tape.
After taping flip the rubber cap over face down and reassemble.There is an alignment slot at the top.
Once you have the slot and the center hole aligned you can flip over and press around the center and the tape will adhere,then flip over and start with the outer lip..pull it back over evenly going from side to side.The alignment slot helps out a lot.

Keep in mind you are basically decreasing the travel from the cap to the switch.The main sensitivity issue for the cymbals is Alesis used reflection Plate Tech for the Piezo so it doesn't flex.The piezo is glued solid to a piece of acrylic and a double stick thin foam ring is used to attach it.The theory is the vibration comes around the cymbal and up through the chamber.It does not work as well as they thought.This might work for a metal lathed cymbal , but vibrations travel differently on a piece of plastic.The same tech is used (an even more complicated version..similar to the Realhead drums) for the top 3 pads on the STRIKE Multipad which is why you'll read complaints about the top 3 pads being more difficult to trigger.The 14" also has numerous resistors..for each of the switches and each zone at the output jack.The 16" and the 12" do not.

The DM10 MKII Pro cymbals are the DMPad.
I haven't had any of those in years and never took them apart so I can't comment on their construction.

EDIT:
Added images
« Last Edit: July 28, 2022, 02:52:38 PM by Chaser »