Author Topic: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions  (Read 2153 times)

Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« on: November 03, 2019, 10:59:19 PM »
Can I just change the head out on my DM10 kit? I'm a little nervous to mess with the wiring of the trigger itself I'm a bit of a noob. Has anyone done this?

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2019, 10:34:12 AM »
I have and I put rubber/foam drum muffs under them to protect the head and bottom plate/trigger. Basically take off old head, put drum muff in place then put mesh head over muff then put rim back on.

http://billyblastdrums.easystorecreator.com/items/Mesh-Heads~Muffs/list.htm

Works great, but not as quiet as a mesh/cone setup, but more quiet than the basic (mylar?) heads. Feel is decent too.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2019, 11:57:00 AM by Triple Lindy »
DM10X mesh/foam conversion, Trigger IO, 8 piece, 7 cymbals, Roland Hi-Hat, Laurin Snare, Roland Rim Trigger, Addictive Drummer 2

Offline orion32

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2019, 11:07:37 AM »
https://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=131.msg684#msg684

It's not as hard as it seems.  Just be careful of the piezo wire not to tug on it too hard when you take off the old head/rim.  It's attached to a metal plate and there isn't a lot of slack.  If you go slow it's easy.  I replaced my heads with mesh and I replaced the stock thin crappy foam with a yoga foam I cut out for 10" and 12" toms.  When you take it apart you should inspect all the other foam to make sure it is still in good shape.  If not you should look to replace it.
Alesis Strike Pro
A to E converted Zildjian L80 - 14" crash, 16" crash & china

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2019, 11:09:51 AM »
I actually love the mesh heads that came with my DM10X Mesh kit, so I ordered mine from Alesis. Only had to change my bass head since I didn't have anything but felt for my kick beater. Big mistake. I should have waited. That felt ate right through the head!

Changing the head was simple though. I was really careful, but confident as I got going on it.
Alesis DM10X Mesh - Laurin Drums & Cymbals - Strike Module
Dartanbeck.com Digital Artist

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2020, 10:13:58 PM »
I just changed out the plastic head for a cheap ebay mesh head.  Not a lot of difference.  It is not really any quetier because I can now hear clanking behind the drum head (the mesh is a screen).

The head is stand alone, it is not attached to anything electronic on the dm10.

I still break the little thin wire on the piezo. 8 times so far.  I now have thicker wire on it, so time will tell if that is the fix.  I play hard from years of acoustic...  I try to play more gentle but when I get going it is stick breaking time again...

Though my hands feel better, and maybe this is from not hitting metal cymbals?

So, whats the deal with mesh heads?  I replaced bass and snare with mesh, and I am still asking, whats the deal?

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2020, 07:20:54 AM »
I actually love the mesh heads that came with my DM10X Mesh kit, so I ordered mine from Alesis. Only had to change my bass head since I didn't have anything but felt for my kick beater. Big mistake. I should have waited. That felt ate right through the head!

Changing the head was simple though. I was really careful, but confident as I got going on it.

WTF.

Just buy a bass drum patch, I have Remo Silentstroke / Evans Patch in my bass drum and using plastic beater for like 3 months and is still strong, plus with foam below that thing will last a lot.
Yep. It was a big mistake using felt beaters on my mesh bass head. I was a total noob.

The replacement head (with a patch) is still going strong after two solid years of gigging live.
Alesis DM10X Mesh - Laurin Drums & Cymbals - Strike Module
Dartanbeck.com Digital Artist

Offline Guinness

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2020, 04:17:06 PM »
There are many threads on this very subject.  Hellfire posted a complete todo.  It's simple and safe to do.  Search "mesh" and I'm sure you'll find it.  It's several years old by now.

edit:

ha... found it.  It's pinned at the top of this thread.  https://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=131.0
« Last Edit: October 23, 2020, 04:21:33 PM by Guinness »

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2020, 01:01:11 PM »
I have DM10 kit.  I don't understand what you guys are talking about... On mine the piezo is under the foam on the clear plate.  Replacing a head involves no wires or triggers or piezo. I bought mine used, was something changed on mine?
It sounds like your DM10 has the piezo on the bass head?

I have only taken the bass apart due to 9 times the wire/solder broken

Offline AlanK

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2020, 01:37:38 PM »
Depending on the mesh conversion method you use, there are different steps you have to take to make it work properly, it's not a simple remove the mylar and put on mesh (well, you could do that but you may not get proper response). Here's the video I followed using the 682Drums mesh kit I ordered way back for my DM10X

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTd9OxhVvf0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqwJUP-w8ZQ

(it's been a decade seems, they have two types of DM10 styles evidently)

I have DM10 kit.  I don't understand what you guys are talking about... On mine the piezo is under the foam on the clear plate.  Replacing a head involves no wires or triggers or piezo. I bought mine used, was something changed on mine?
It sounds like
our DM10 has the piezo on the bass head?

I have only taken the bass apart due to 9 times the wire/solder broken
DM10X with Addictive Drums 2, Pro X hi-hat, 4 crashes, foam cone conversion w Roland mesh heads, Laurin Drums snare and kick, Mapex P710W double kick pedal, Mapex 2 legged hi-hat, Behringer 8 channel USB mixer, Tascam 144MK AI, Samson Expedition Escape powered speakers

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2020, 03:01:10 PM »
My mesh conversion on snare and bass was - remove plastic head, put on mesh head.  Everything worked fine.  What do I need the extra pieces for?

Offline AlanK

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2020, 04:37:52 PM »
I think the basic science behind it was, the mylar heads don't flex as much so with the mesh heads, you're supposed to have an inch or so of space in between the head and the plate/piezo to give it room to bounce, plus with the foam cone or cylinder, depending on the product you use, it needs that space to fit in underneath. Are you simply putting mesh on and pounding the hell out of your piezos? If so, no wonder they're breaking on you, there needs to be some room and the foam cone to transfer the strike down to the piezo triggers.. I'm no expert and that's a pretty rough description and I may not have fully read all the messages in this thread too carefully, so there's my disclaimer lol
DM10X with Addictive Drums 2, Pro X hi-hat, 4 crashes, foam cone conversion w Roland mesh heads, Laurin Drums snare and kick, Mapex P710W double kick pedal, Mapex 2 legged hi-hat, Behringer 8 channel USB mixer, Tascam 144MK AI, Samson Expedition Escape powered speakers

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2020, 05:40:05 AM »
I actually love the mesh heads that came with my DM10X Mesh kit, so I ordered mine from Alesis. Only had to change my bass head since I didn't have anything but felt for my kick beater. Big mistake. I should have waited. That felt ate right through the head!

Changing the head was simple though. I was really careful, but confident as I got going on it.

WTF.

Just buy a bass drum patch, I have Remo Silentstroke / Evans Patch in my bass drum and using plastic beater for like 3 months and is still strong, plus with foam below that thing will last a lot.
Yep. It was a big mistake using felt beaters on my mesh bass head. I was a total noob.

The replacement head (with a patch) is still going strong after two solid years of gigging live.

What kind of mesh head/patch are you using?
I don't recall what the patch is. Evans, I think. I like the original DM10X Mesh heads so well, when I needed to replace that one bass head for being ignorant, I read all manner of reviews for different heads, and finally ended up contacting Alesis for a replacement.

I started noticing that wood sticks were making blemishes on cymbals and heads, so I switched to AHEAD sticks and love them.

That said, I'm still playing the original DM10X Mesh heads, only replacing that 8" bass, and I'm very happy with how well this inexpensive kit has held up. Our gigs are four hours long, and we often only take one break in the middle if we have a decent crowd - which is most gigs. Summer months we play around 3 gigs per month, but we normally play year round. Not sure about this winter. We'll see.

Our last gig this month was Oct 17, where I noticed that I finally have to rebuild the two 10" drums (replace the transducers). I've worked on my cymbals a bit, and ordered two new ones to make sure I always have them working, but this is the first time a drum trigger went down. Again, for the cymbals I just contacted Alesis support and got original equipment. I'm happy enough, why change things.

After taking such a beating for two and a half years, I'm planning to build up the funds for a Strike Pro, but still keep this one rockin' as well.

Cheers All!
Alesis DM10X Mesh - Laurin Drums & Cymbals - Strike Module
Dartanbeck.com Digital Artist

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2020, 05:50:36 AM »
I think the basic science behind it was, the mylar heads don't flex as much so with the mesh heads, you're supposed to have an inch or so of space in between the head and the plate/piezo to give it room to bounce, plus with the foam cone or cylinder, depending on the product you use, it needs that space to fit in underneath. Are you simply putting mesh on and pounding the hell out of your piezos? If so, no wonder they're breaking on you, there needs to be some room and the foam cone to transfer the strike down to the piezo triggers.. I'm no expert and that's a pretty rough description and I may not have fully read all the messages in this thread too carefully, so there's my disclaimer lol
True!
Mine came with the mesh heads. I'm glad. While they might not be the most sensitive drum pads on the market, they sure are the best I've owned.

I love the design. Foam pillars between the head and the sensitivity plate, which holds the Piezo. Rim Piezo is mounted on the shell, if I remember right. Never had to fix a drum until now, and I haven't done it yet. Looking forward to it though. The cymbals went smoothly enough except that, once the choke ribbon isn't working properly I have no clue how to fix that - but the main trigger is nestled nicely in its own little spot in the cymbal foundation. Love these things!

This kit owes me nothing by now. I really owe it to Alesis to buy myself a new kit! ;)
Alesis DM10X Mesh - Laurin Drums & Cymbals - Strike Module
Dartanbeck.com Digital Artist

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #13 on: October 28, 2020, 11:54:24 AM »
Since I bought mine used I cannot be sure how it was set up originally...
There is the head, then a dense 1/8 inch thin foam pad, then the plate with the piezo behind that and the light foam behind that.  So the piezo is right against the head.  Should it be further back?

I was breaking them before, maybe every few hours of use, and yes, still breaking the connections, but since using heavier gauge wire it takes longer to break.  The mesh is not any more quiet, so I may just go back to the original head.


The piezo is getting pretty worked over from solder.
How are these made?  Have I ruined it?  Is it shorting out?  Now it does not work at all.
I am guessing there are two metal plates separated by some sort of sticky paper insulator and maybe I burned through the insulator and shorted it out.  There is the paper covering on top of the inner circle, and I do not know what that is for except maybe just to keep it covered....
« Last Edit: October 28, 2020, 12:40:40 PM by modolovo »

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #14 on: October 30, 2020, 11:13:45 AM »
no, if you dont know what youre doing, then learn.  That is how I replaced by auto air conditioning having never done it before.  I had no clue, but now I do.
When it comes to a 30 cent piezo then, no, I will never have someone else do it.  like the child molestor says, "C'm on man!"

Offline Dartanbeck

Re: Dm10 Mesh Head Questions
« Reply #15 on: December 02, 2020, 10:49:18 AM »
Well, you really don't want your piezo looking like that when you're done. I've only done a little on the subject quite some time ago, and each of the instructors said to take great care when soldering to the piezo head.

It may be 30 cents, but if we overheat it and completely cover it in solder, we shouldn't expect it to work well.

There are some pretty decent DIY drum trigger tutorials out there - folks making them from scratch. It might be worthwhile to look into some of those.

In my DM10 Mesh pads, the piezo is mounted on a plate away from the actual head, with pillars of foam going from the head to the plate. After playing two solid years of four-hour gigs, I'm only now finding the need to replace/repair my piezos on the drum pads. I've dodne my cymbals a couple times so far - then just bought replacements from Alesis, but still use the ones I've fixed. I just don't know how to repair/replace the ribbon for the choke, but the main cymbal triggers still work great.
Alesis DM10X Mesh - Laurin Drums & Cymbals - Strike Module
Dartanbeck.com Digital Artist