Quick question on this great treads... I would like to get more constant ''Edge'' out of my STRIKE Dual Hi Hat and I would like to do the tape trick... What about the glue? you add more glue when you re-assemble? If yes, what kind have you used? or the old glue will still do the job?
I would like to add better choke response to my Alesis DM10 MKII Pro cymbals, have you tried it on those too?
Thanks and have a nice day!
The STRIKE Cymbals all have a very thin Industrial double sided tape...underneath the outer edge and the center.
The tape under the rim isn't as durable as the tape in the center , but the rubber caps lip is very strong very thick so it goes back and stays in place , pretty much without it.
I use auto trim tools , which have a wide blade you work in between the rubber cap and the cymbal..gently pry up on the rubber cap and fold over the cymbal edge.I don not recommend using a metal screwdriver.The blade is too narrow and you risk breaking the lip because of the tapes strength and metal vs plastic.
After releasing the rubber cap and folding over the edge.(The process will remind you of changing a bicycle tire..if anyone even does that these days.) Pull back with even pressure and the tape should remain in place.Then flip the cymbal over and apply even pulling towards the center as you pull back.You'll hear a loud ripping sound when it lets go as the plastic cymbal magnifies the sound.
It is more difficult to pull the rubber cap 1/2 way back then tape than it is to remove the entire rubber cap.If it seem the cap is stuck while pulling or the tape starts to come up with it..rotate and pull from another direction.Some cymbals there is a point where the rubber cap releases smoothly.. almost immediately..depends on the cymbal size.
The tape is reusable (keep it as clean as possible..it attracts everything) and you'll find if you let the cap fall back into place at any time it will adhere as strong as before.
During taping go slow and press down..if you stretch the tape over time it will eventually revert back to original length.
I have opened up after a period of time and noticed it on some of the 1st cymbals I knew I stretched the tape.
After taping flip the rubber cap over face down and reassemble.There is an alignment slot at the top.
Once you have the slot and the center hole aligned you can flip over and press around the center and the tape will adhere,then flip over and start with the outer lip..pull it back over evenly going from side to side.The alignment slot helps out a lot.
Keep in mind you are basically decreasing the travel from the cap to the switch.The main sensitivity issue for the cymbals is Alesis used reflection Plate Tech for the Piezo so it doesn't flex.The piezo is glued solid to a piece of acrylic and a double stick thin foam ring is used to attach it.The theory is the vibration comes around the cymbal and up through the chamber.It does not work as well as they thought.This might work for a metal lathed cymbal , but vibrations travel differently on a piece of plastic.The same tech is used (an even more complicated version..similar to the Realhead drums) for the top 3 pads on the STRIKE Multipad which is why you'll read complaints about the top 3 pads being more difficult to trigger.The 14" also has numerous resistors..for each of the switches and each zone at the output jack.The 16" and the 12" do not.
The DM10 MKII Pro cymbals are the DMPad.
I haven't had any of those in years and never took them apart so I can't comment on their construction.
EDIT:Added images