Get a Choke Hold (eCymbal Choke Switch)

[Hellfire]

This was a project a did a while back, but I thought it might be a good way to start off the DIY section of the forum. This cymbal switch works great as a choke switch for the Alesis Trigger I/O. It will also work well with most Roland modules. By putting this switch on top of the cymbal, you can get a two zone trigger with an Alesis trigger I/O (port #4) or a Two zone plus choke on most Roland modules. For more info on this project go to: Get a Choke Hold (eCymbal Choke Switch)

[KnipeDrums]

Thanks for putting this up, I am going to make a cymbal one day and will probably DIY a kit to use with a new DM10 module when it comes out. Tom

[rockdude]

I'm using your choke hold-solution on two of my crash cymbals with great success. At first I had too little distance between my choke plates (Pretty thin aluminium material) and it made them connect if I hit the cymbal hard and producing an unwanted choke. With further separation my cymbal chokes work perfect!

[Hellfire]

AwDeOh
Choke Switch

Hey bud!

I'm getting close to starting the build on my set of e-cymbals, just wanted to get in touch with you about the choke switch, since you're the first name that comes to mind when I think of them.

I've been running through the project in my head (I'm using TKO Practice 14/16" cymbals) and want a REALLY good looking cymbal, that means painting the top and coating it with a silicone sealant to cut the sound down. That also means trying to get the choke switch (which I'll be using in a 3-zone config) mounted underneath the cymbal, rather than on top.

With that in mind, do you think your template designs would work reasonably well if i were to remove the outside edge of the shim? I'm guessing the theory in my mind is that the stick will hit on an angle on the edge of the cymbal, the plastic will bend slightly and force the contact in the switch.. but that I would imagine would be dependant on removing that outside edge from the shim.

Any thoughts?

I got this PM (over at Vdrums.com) from AwDeOh. I ask if I could put it over here since I didn't feel I would have had enough room in a PM to cover my thoughts on the matter.

First off, using TKO Practice Cymbals are fine (I've used them myself), but you may want to double them up. They tend to crack a little easier then Pintech practice cymbals because they are a little less flexible. BTW, I think that is good, because it gives the TKO cymbals a more real feel.

Since you will most likely be using two sandwiched together, I think you should put the switch between the two cymbals. Leave out the edge shim and I would think it would work great. By putting it between two cymbals, not only will you new eCymbal last longer, but you will be protecting the edge switch as well. It will be less likely to deform and always be touching if each plate of the switch is backed up by plastic cymbal. You could even put a rubber edging all the way around the cymbal sandwich when you a done building it. That should keep out any dirt that may try to find its way into the switch and it has the added benefit of making edge strikes quieter.

Now, running wires between cymbal might create a problem. The way to get around this is to cut the plates of the switch with long leads (it would look kind of like a hockey stick shape). These lead would be the length to get to the project box that you would have mounted under the cymbal.  By doing this you don't have to run wires between the two cymbals. Please let me know what you think. If you need a picture of what I'm talking about just ask and I will make one up.

[AwDeOh]

Hey guys, first post so HEY GUYS!

Like Hellfire said, I'm using TKO cymbals, and planning to use a silicone caulk (i'm using a New Zealand brand called 'Selley's All Clear' which is a clear bathroom caulk.) I'm going to try and spread that across the entire top surface for a rubbery coating, so I'm HOPING that will help me with durability. I don't plan on doubling up the cymbals as yet, since it took me months and great pains dealing with Fretstore.com to get them.. but I'll work on one first to see if it'll work and then either double them up if needed, or convert the rest.

My thoughts on the stealth choke switch - this is all just my thinking and I haven't experimented yet, but I'm thinking that so long as there's enough distance between the outside open edge of the choke switch, and the inside where the shim starts, that should mean there'll be enough flex for light hits to close the membrane. I should also mention here that I'm using the sides of a couple of bulk coffee tins, I can't remember the size but they're about 10" high. From looking around the net it seems the aluminium is around 0.026 thickness, which I've read in a post somewhere was recommended for durability.

At this stage I'm thinking I'll aim for about 2" minimum in unshimmed area from the outer edge to the inside shim. I would imagine the more the distance, the more sensitivity.. however it also increases the probability of something going wrong in there. Another thought I've just had is that it may help to use one of the 16" cymbals as a donor, cut into thirds, as an underside backing - I think if I have any problems with really light edge hits triggering, it may be a case of the underside of the choke needing something firm attached to the underside of the choke to give a bit more weight on the bottom of the switch. A kinda 'hammer and anvil' situation.. if you will.

Anyhow, enough talk.. just need to tell everyone I have swine flu this weekend so I have a free couple of days in the workshop.