Is the center piezo glue directly to the clear plate and the plate rests on the foam and those arms (horizontal) are connecting the center plate to the outer plate or is the center plate glued directly to the foam?.
Yes, it's "glued" directly to the plastic "shield" underneath. I can't tell if the center plastic plate is glued to the foam underneath, but I suspect not judging by how it moves. The foam "posts" on the top of the shield, have a slightly sticky bottom to hold them in place. (There were some scattered around inside that had come loose when I first opened it up. ) I guess the others underneath might have the same??
The "arms" to the sides are connected to outer plastic circle as one piece, but those had snapped on the side next to the center where the piezo is placed. I put a small strip of plastic, like packaging, across the top of each, and used the silicone sealant/adhesive to hold them in place. Kind a of a hack and I don't know if it made any difference, but figured it couldn't hurt.
It doesn't appear that any of the plastic shield on the top is glued to any part of the foam underneath.
Were the wires laying on top of the plastic next to the outer piezo/pickup?..I see a lot of sharp edges where the wires can rub..
They were. But there is a lot of space on the top, and they didn't have a lot of play. (Less than I left after the repair.) The cut in the wire was so close to the piezo itself, I don't see how it could have rubbed against anything. (It was right at the edge of the piezo, but still on the piezo body.)
I thought of using a small amount of silicone to hold the wires in place, but not knowing what the plastic shield is actually there for, and there was no silicone originally holding them in place, I decided not to for the time being. The wires don't really move much now that they're soldered, so I'm hopeful for now. :-)
If you have problems again ,try cutting cut a piece of double side foam tape the diameter/size of the center/ceramic portion.
This exposes the outer brass and allows the piezo to pick up the vibrations and flex better than just directly glued to the trigger plate ..
There are a lot of complaints about the trigger design for this model...but I wonder if the complaints were for early or later design..or if the DM10 MKII Pro always had this design.
That's a great idea. I'll try that if I have to do it again. I just put it back in the way I found it. :-)
Can you see through the mesh if the smaller toms have the same design or is it just the 12"?
I just took a quick look. I can see the foam posts, but can't see in well enough to tell if there's the plastic shield.
If I open one up at some point, I'll update here with some pics. :-)
EDIT:
I attached a pic of the 10" Snare that came with the Crimson/DM10 MKII Studio.. etc..it is the earlier design that came with the original DM10 mesh kits...then mesh kits after Rolands patent expired including STRIKE/STRIKE Pro etc.
The piezo is attached underneath..upside down..there is no ring/chambers and no tool access areas cut into the plates for removal etc and a much smaller metal plate... you can imagine how small the trigger setup would be inside a 12"..it looks small in the 10".
The second pic (STRIKE Pro 14" Snare) shows how that designed failed a lot...
Good lord. That looks miserable.