Author Topic: I got the kit to sound and trigger perfect but this friggin hi hat!!  (Read 508 times)

I hope someone can help as I am honestly at the end of my rope. I have spent countless hours, weeks, months getting my DM10 Studio dialed in, head conversion and stuff and I honestly do enjoy playing it (still miss an acoustic kit but, oh well) but this bloody hi hat pedal honestly just stops me playing and then I go off and sulk for a few days before I come back to fiddle around with it.

I am using the real hat and midi it into BFD3 with a custom kit, the splash sound is slightly delayed and retriggers about 5-10 times in a song. I have tried the pedal mod, read all the postings on adjusting it in the module on on BFD3 to no avail, I try to be aware of my foot pressure and have gotten into the habit of not playing the hi hat when I close the pedal after opening (never had this problem with a real hi hat), also, the closed pedal/splash sound is really loud and again, I have tried everything to quieten it down.

Any suggestions will be welcome, I have looked at replacing the pedal but I don't want another Alesis and I'm  not sure which brand I could replace it with?

Sorry about the rant, I'm getting old.

Offline Chaser

Re: I got the kit to sound and trigger perfect but this friggin hi hat!!
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2024, 07:25:00 PM »
I hope someone can help as I am honestly at the end of my rope. I have spent countless hours, weeks, months getting my DM10 Studio dialed in, head conversion and stuff and I honestly do enjoy playing it (still miss an acoustic kit but, oh well) but this bloody hi hat pedal honestly just stops me playing and then I go off and sulk for a few days before I come back to fiddle around with it.

Welcome to the Forum !

Electronic Drum Kits..even the $10K Kits with all the advancements Electronic Drums have made over the past decade are not going to respond as the Acoustic versions..especially Hi Hats.
The Hi Hats have always been the weakest part of drum modules...even the more recent $1K HH Models do not work perfectly out of the box as the Majority of Drum Modules Default settings are Generic/starting points and require you setup the module for your style of playing.
Drum Modules convert/Interpret all the signals into MIDI which is then sent to the Internal Sound Generator (Local ON)..or passed on to software (Local OFF)..either way the most important aspect is to get everything triggering and working well with the Module first ...then you can fine tune in the software to the best Hi Hat performance possible with that specific Module.

It's not the Hi Hat Controller...The Original DM10 has always had the overly sensitive chick/Splash.
This Module is going on 15 years old (almost 10 since discontinued) and at the time there were No Features for adjusting the Pedal Chick or Splash Sensitivity.If you are a fast stepper the Module will interpret the sudden Voltage change as a Splash..

See this Topic DM10 Heel Splash

Quote
I am using the real hat and midi it into BFD3 with a custom kit, the splash sound is slightly delayed and retriggers about 5-10 times in a song. I have tried the pedal mod, read all the postings on adjusting it in the module on on BFD3 to no avail, I try to be aware of my foot pressure and have gotten into the habit of not playing the hi hat when I close the pedal after opening (never had this problem with a real hi hat), also, the closed pedal/splash sound is really loud and again, I have tried everything to quieten it down.

You can adjust (trim) any Articulation in BFD..on the Kit Page with the Kit Piece selected..under Model you'll see the feature to adjust the trim per Articulation.(Artic Trim)

BFD has one of the best Hi Hat Engines available..and has been updated/upgraded over the years (20) from the Original Closed-1/2-Full Open..to standard Closed-1/4-1/2-3/4-Full Open Typically found in most software.. and more recently include 1/8..However Not All of the expansions have the same amount of detail in their articulations/Sound Libraries or have 1/8 articulations..currently only one..Dark Farm...a few others are in the process of being updated.

For Example:BFD1 (Now Eldorado) the Hi Hats are only Closed-1/2-Full Open.

I created and attached a NEW Updated MIDI map with the additional Hi Hat Ranges (Predetermined Ranges) and the Hi Hat MIDI Assigned as a variable Hi Hat by Default.
I also Mapped the Edge (Shank)..so you can actually change the MIDI Notes in the Module and have a 2nd Hi Hat Opion , which would be a Hi hat using the Edge instead of the Bow.
The New Map has the Silver Module Image , the Old Map is the Charcoal Module which was the first Module released.

Unzip..copy/Paste the Folder to:

Windows C:\ProgramData>BFD Drums>BFD3>System>Maps.

macOS Library>Application Support>BFD Drums>BFD3>System>Maps


Rescan System Content Path




Quote
Any suggestions will be welcome, I have looked at replacing the pedal but I don't want another Alesis and I'm  not sure which brand I could replace it with?

Sorry about the rant, I'm getting old.

Alesis resistance range for Hi Hat Controllers is basically 0-70kOhms.Roland/Yamaha 0-20/30kOhms
The Original DM10 Module Final Updates (2014) were for Mesh Heads and FSR for the Pro-X Hi hat which also is the exact same Controller used with the STRIKE Hi Hat.
The difference being the Cymbal for the original DM10 is single Zone (the Module is Hardwired Single Zone) and the STRIKE Cymbal is Dual Zone.(the original 12" is/was Dual Zone..the 14" is a Crash with the Hi hat mount and the cymbal itself is actually Triple Zone).

Check the Module and see exactly which Trigger OS is installed..

DM10 Trigger OS V1.00a (Real Hat pedal..Continuous/Variable)
DM10 Trigger OS V1.01b (Pro-X Hi Hat.. FSR).

If 1.01b is installed it is for the Pro-X (FSR) the Module is expecting a FSR signal to Interpret.
You can not downgrade to the RealHat Firmware..so you will have to dial in as best as possible.

You can go into the DM10 Module and shut off the Splash Note..then select Auto Splash Event in KEY MAP Mode
You'll need to experiment with learning/setting CC4/Velocity for each Note under RESPONSE and adjusting the Articulations trim to get it dialed in as best as possible.This takes some practice activating the Splash Note in the Hi Hat to show for adjustment.

Auto pedal event
This setting is to be used when using variable hihat control with electronic drum brains which do not send out a pedal (foot-chick) note automatically when the hihat pedal is full depressed.

When the setting is activated, a pedal note is generated whenever the hihat pedal MIDI CC reaches the first value within the 'closed zone' defined with the Pedal transitions control in the Hihat Response panel.

If your drum brain sends out a pedal note when the hihat pedal is fully depressed then you should deactivate this setting if it is enabled.

Auto splash event
When using an electronic drumkit with variable hihat controller pedal, activating this setting results in an open hihat sound being generated if the hihat pedal is opened soon after a closed tip, closed shank or Pedal articulation. The length of time within which this function operates is defined by the Hihat Reopen Threshold setting in the Preferences.

Did you do the DM10 Auto Calibration?..Typically this sets the Open at somewhere around 74..Closed at 5 or so(depending on how hard you press)
You can also adjust the Trim while connected to software and listen to how the software responds.

Increasing Trim Closed..easier to close/choke the hi hat..
Increasing Trim Open..closes the Open Range and even allow you to setup a 1/2 open HH.

The RealHat and the Pro-X (Long discontinued) are the Main Options for Alesis and the resistance range..Roland Yamaha etc have a different resistance range and while you'll read/see where other brands/models work..that is just it...they "Work"
There are some others that have been introduced over the years by different manufacturers..Goedrum now has one specifically for Alesis , however it's a slide Pot and those have a hard time "Splashing" as it is mechanical and doesn't respond fast enough.Millenium has a couple however what is praiised by one is condemned by another..so it becomes trial and error and a race down the Rabbit Hole..

The Majority of Hi Hat Controllers may/will "Work" and sometimes seem better...but not as well as the intended hardware just as throwing a Piezo on a paper plate for a Drum trigger..It will "Work"

EDIT:
Added NEW Key Map..Links
« Last Edit: August 17, 2024, 06:25:08 PM by Chaser »