So, as i've alluded in my last two posts in this thread, i have some comments regarding
applying Trondster's rack dampening formula to the DM10 Studio.
i'll just say right out of the gates, for you other DM10 Studio owners who might be considering these pretty straightforward mods for your rack: Don't bother unless you're a pedant or still have trouble with crosstalk even after proper module configuration or live somewhere with continuous geological activity.
this has nothing to do with the formula, but the many rack-specific differences between the DM10 Pro (the model Trondster owns) and the DM10 Studio.
you can, and i did, add foam to the to the *front* legs, and the horizontal bracing tubes. so, that is still and option. you can dampen the snare arm tubing, too. you can also use foam in the bases of the cymbal/hi-hat arms (though i don't know if this was in the original method from Trondster, i did it anyhow, since i had so much foam left due to miscalculation
). unless you apply enough force that would risk damaging the cap, you can't get the top caps of the *back* legs removed. when a mid-sized flat-head screw-driver didn't work, i just let it be.
the clamps of the DM10 Studio were made in such a way that it's basically impossible to add 2mm craft foam (or 0.5 mm craft foam) to the clamps. they are one piece, and come already installed on the bracing. they are removable, but only because they loosen a bit so you can slide them along with ease when adjusting you kit layout. unlike the the clamps on the DM10 Pro, you can't remove both screws and have the two halves of the clamp. i already had removed a clamp when i decided to no longer use the 2nd 8" pad (Perc 3), and checked it out after stuffing the frame with foam. to get the clamp back on the support arm with the extra 2mm of foam would have required enough force to either cause it to bend or break the clamp. plus it would be almost impossible to move/adjust after placed on the rack unless pried at the open ends with a screwdriver or something. so it was not an option.
the addition of foam to the cymbal arm joints is possible, but might be more trouble than it's worth. i didn't do so when i was doing the more tedious stuff. the arm construction between both models is not all too different, so it seems possible to add the draft foam, but since the DM10 Studio doesn't have the surge cymbals, you're not risking much by leaving the arms alone. i still have craft foam at the ready should i change my mind.
i did use the 2mm craft foam to use as a buffer between the module and the bracket, as is also pictured at the top of the thread. i also held back a swatch of felt to use at the base of the l-bar, if the one-piece slam will allow it. i don't foresee 2mm craft foam being effective here.
i think that's it, aside from the obvious fact you can also convert the feet of the kick pad. i would have to agree with Trondster that angling the toms and adjusting the sensitivity and threshold settings are the three best tools to eliminate crosstalk. you won't be able to angle your toms as Trondster has displayed in his photo, but you can pull the brackets in, swing the toms the other way around and tilt them until you get the same effect, adjusting the sensitivity and threshold values a bit for fine tuning. at the moment, i rarely have any crosstalk or ghost hits (as i call them).