DM10 Initial Kit Setup

[Svist]

Hi everyone

I recently got second hand DM10 module and plan to use it for acoustic kit mesh conversion.
I?ve read here that upon resetting the module will ask me to chose among existed DM10 kits: studio, x, mesh etc. Could you tell me please which kit shall I choose if I?m planning to use the module with mostly DIY pads?

[Chaser]

Hi everyone

I recently got second hand DM10 module and plan to use it for acoustic kit mesh conversion.
I?ve read here that upon resetting the module will ask me to chose among existed DM10 kits: studio, x, mesh etc. Could you tell me please which kit shall I choose if I?m planning to use the module with mostly DIY pads?

Welcome to the Forum !

You have the option of 4 kits..DM10 Studio....DM10 Studio Mesh....DM10X....DM10X Mesh.
The Difference between the kits is the trigger settings for Mylar or Mesh Heads and Trigger/Pad sizes.

The DM10 Studio -  (4) Toms 8/8/8/8" with 10" snare, 12" hi-hat, (2) 12" crash, and a 14" Triple-Zone Ride
The DM10X -  (4) Toms 10/10/12/12"  with 12" snare, 12" hi-hat, (2) 14" crash, and a 16" Triple-Zone Ride

You select the Kit closest to the sizes you are using for trigger setting starting points.

EDIT:
Added Links

[Svist]

Thank you much for the answer.

..for trigger setting starting points.

So it?s just a starting preset that could be fully edited later? Nothing is chosen that can?t be unchosen without another factory reset, right?

[Chaser]

Thank you much for the answer.

..for trigger setting starting points.

So it?s just a starting preset that could be fully edited later? Nothing is chosen that can?t be unchosen without another factory reset, right?

The trigger settings are for the triggers/pads sizes and the Heads listed/Specified...Alesis
ALL modules Default trigger settings are base settings and you adjust to your playing style.....No One Plays the same ..Factory Reset just puts them back to the Base settings you started with for the Triggers you selected.

Obviously if you are doing DIY they aren't the exact same pads/triggers in the options you are going to have more variables and you are not going to find perfect trigger settings so you are going to have to spend time dialing them in.
Refer the DM10 User Guide... learn how to back up trigger settings etc if you want to save them.

[Svist]

you are going to have more variables and you are not going to find perfect trigger settings so you are going to have to spend time dialing them in.

Thanks. That I understand
I?ve asked because I?ve red somewhere that these initial kit selections define the type of hi hat controller you are going to use and if selected wrong you?ll need factory reset to reselect.

[Chaser]

you are going to have more variables and you are not going to find perfect trigger settings so you are going to have to spend time dialing them in.

Thanks. That I understand
I?ve asked because I?ve red somewhere that these initial kit selections define the type of hi hat controller you are going to use and if selected wrong you?ll need factory reset to reselect.

That is the Main Trigger OS..Check which Version you have to see which Hi Hat is supported .

There is No Choice/Option for the Hi Hat with Kit selection..the Modules Firmware will support only one Hi Hat..Real Hat (membrane/Softpot) or Pro-X (FSR)...Not both.

The Final Versions

DM10  Firmware Updates [posted 9/22/2014]
DM10 Updater 1.00
DM10_boot_v1.00h.syx
DM10-app-v1.00s.syx
DM10_triggers_V1.00a.syx (use with Realhat pedal)
DM10_triggers_V1.01b.syx (use with Alesis Pro-X Hi Hat)
DM10_sound_rom-V1.03.syx

You cannot downgrade from Pro-X (FSR) to Realhat..there are consequences downgrading..including Bricking the Module.


EDIT:
Added Links

[Svist]

That is the Main Trigger OS..Check which Version you have to see which Hi Hat is supported .

There is No Choice/Option for the Hi Hat with Kit selection..the Modules Firmware will support only one Hi Hat..Real Hat (membrane/Softpot) or Pro-X (FSR)...Not both.

Aha! I confused everything a bit Thanks for clarifying.

I?m still waiting my module to be delivered, can?t check trigger os version yet.

I plan to use one of these controllers that you fit on a stand under the hi hat. Lemone, GoEdrums, Drumtec, Millenium make them. So I assume I would need 1.00a version?

[Chaser]

That is the Main Trigger OS..Check which Version you have to see which Hi Hat is supported .

There is No Choice/Option for the Hi Hat with Kit selection..the Modules Firmware will support only one Hi Hat..Real Hat (membrane/Softpot) or Pro-X (FSR)...Not both.

Aha! I confused everything a bit Thanks for clarifying.

I?m still waiting my module to be delivered, can?t check trigger os version yet.

I plan to use one of these controllers that you fit on a stand under the hi hat. Lemone, GoEdrums, Drumtec, Millenium make them. So I assume I would need 1.00a version?

A number of those are Slide pots..
Hi Hat Controllers are often mixed between manufactures and while they will work , the issue is working well.
The main difference between Roland and Alesis is the Hi Hat resistance range.
Roland resistance range is much shorter/smaller.anywhere from  .6-20 kOhm as most Roland Modules CC4 range is up to 90..not 127.

If the Firmware turns out to be v1.01b (Pro-X FSR).The STRIKE Hi Hat Controller is compatible as it is the exact same one used for the Pro-X.
The Pro-X Hi Hat (Discontinued years ago) used a DMPad..single Zone..The DM10 is Hard-wired for a Single Zone Hi hat..however the module has MIDI Notes for a Dual Zone if you were to MIDI in an external controller like the Trigger I/O, eDRUMin etc
The Original DM10 is/was one of the few modules that could be expanded..it supports 35 additional MIDI notes with full editing.
Another Feature the original DM10 had that wasn't passed on to Newer Moudles is that when splitting Triggers typically they cancell each other out when you strike both at the same time .The Original DM10 has a "Zone" Xtalk setting so both triggers can be hit simultaneously.
Since you are DYI Triggers another bit of info to remember is the Mylar Kits settings are not going to be as Hot as the Mesh settings.
The Mylar triggers AKA RealHeads used reflection Plate Tech and the Piezo (usually the jack was mounted on PCB with resistors) was closer to the Head than the Cones/columns version that are around today.
When doing the early mesh Conversions the Foam Moved up and the Piezo/Reflection Plate moved down and away from the Head so it was common/necessary to turn the sensitivity way up or remove the resistor.
There were also Triggers/Pads that were shallower and the Head Piezo ended up nearly on top of the Rim Piezo
So if your triggers are too hot with the Mesh Kit settings try the Mylar.
Typically with the Cones it's around 1-1/8" - 1-1/4" to the Piezo from the Head.Use a Potentiometer if possible especially if going with multiple Piezo's..which is becoming more and more common.. otherwise expect to go down the Rabbit Hole guessing on resistors and Piezo combinations.
It's all going to depend on Piezo Size/Placement in your triggers.


EDIT:Added Links

[Svist]

If the Firmware turns out to be v1.01b

Good I didn't rush for the controller. I'll wait to check the firmware. Thanx, very valuable advice.

The DM10 is Hard-wired for a Single Zone Hi hat.. however the module has MIDI Notes for a Dual Zone if you were to MIDI in an external controller like the Trigger I/O, eDRUMin etc
The Original DM10 is/was one of the few modules that could be expanded..it supports 35 additional MIDI notes with full editing.

I've read topic about that and the self-triggering trick with midi cable loop. That's why I've gotten an idea of buying eDRUMin4 to rigger 2 zone Hi hat. I would like to stick to in-module sound processing because I don't really want to mess with VST stuff and the PC. I tried a bit and didn't like it.
What do you think, will it be any better to buy additional small triggering interface like eDRUMin4 to rigger the Hi hat or the self-triggering trick will preform same?

So if your triggers are too hot with the Mesh Kit settings try the Mylar.
Typically with the Cones it's around 1-1/8" - 1-1/4" to the Piezo from the Head. Use a Potentiometer if possible especially if going with multiple Piezo's.. which is becoming more and more common.. otherwise expect to go down the Rabbit Hole guessing on resistors and Piezo combinations.
It's all going to depend on Piezo Size/Placement in your triggers.

I've got Nitro Max kit for now. So far converted my kick and snare. For kick I got inspired with the Roland KD-9 trigger design. Made a sandwich of 2mm alluminium plate, 20mm polyurethane foam and 3mm rubber foam. Placed 35mm piezo at the back side of alluminium plate. Fixed trigger sandwich on EVA foam "stands". There's Teflon cloth also on the photo on top of the sensor whiсh I removed later during final assembly due to unforeseen circumstances



And covered everything with Drum-tec mesh with very loose tension. I'm VERY satisfied with the result of how it performs, feels and looks



For the snare I bought a drum that has already been triggered by some guy. It was 30$ with Remo Silent stroke head (which appeared to be crap) and I bought it mainly for the shell to redo later. I changed head to Drum-tec one and redid soldering done by previous DIYer and it performs quite good also besides center hotspot. It was triggered with center cone and center rim sensor on the plate in the middle, I guess it's called spider type design.
I want to retrigger it anyway. I have three designs in mind and would like to hear you opinion please.

First - is to kinda copy Nito Max and some other Alesis snare pads design. With single piezo for the head zone fixed on a wide plate with 3-5-6 foam towers which make contact with mesh head. This plate is usually mounted on foam spacers as a decouplers. And the rim zone piezo on the bottom of the "spider".

Second one - is to use multiple (3-5) side mounted triggers for the head zone. And one center mounted piezo for the rim zone on x shaped bar with 4 points of contact with the drumshell.

Third one - is to use "spider" with three separate triggers (cones/towers) a bit spread up and mounted on raised central plate for the head zone.

Which one will perform better with DM10 in your opinion?

[Chaser]

Looks like you've been busy...I have also worked with trigger designs using 2020 profile..mostly single bar...machined some similiar to HALO TRIGGER by Drone Trigger...(AKA..Mike from Kit Toys).



If you use Social media (I don't) he is on Facebook.. DRONE Trigger System...been a few years since he posted anything.I believe he had some health problems.
He went from Kit Toys to Drone trigger Systems in 2010.He usually sold his Trigger Systems on ebay.

I don't setup the DM10 very often anymore..I break it out for any troubleshooting that hasn't been addressed on this Forum..which isn't too often.
The Final Version of the Mesh Kits used a "Sensitivity Knob"..which is actually more of a Blend for the Center and Edge.
You could isolate each one or move the sensitivity to one or the other.
The same setup is on the STRIKE Kits and some others.

There were many designs/Versions for the Alesis Mesh triggers..I attached Pre-2016..which is 2015 and earlier DM10..and 2016 and later (STRIKE Design Not Included) which covers most of the Newer Kits after the Roland Patent expired.

The DM10 has 10 year old firmware and it's algorithm more than likely isn't going to interpret additional voltage changes from multiple Piezo Positions
along with an old sample pool that's not going to have multiple variations and the majority of all the more complicated trigger designs (which they are numerous now..and some quite elaborate/expensive) came after the DM10 lost popularity. .The Blue Jay Sound set may have had more variations or dynamics and the DM10 2.0 (AKA Pearl Red Box) which turned the module from a multiple Kits/Articulations samples module to a single Kit module with more dynamics etc etc. I haven't setup a Hi hat with eDRUMin and the original DM10 to check the performance or if the sample pool or the Hi hat Combinations have a full range Hi hat.

The eDRUMin can create a dual zone from a single Piezo (TS Cable) with it's edge sensing.
There is a DIY section  Triggers..switch pedals, Hi hat pedals, etc etc and Rob is constantly updating his products to accommodate a lot of them as much as possible.

You're in unknown territory...using an older module and it's Sample Base while using newer trigger designs....be careful not to go down the Rabbit Hole..












There were some members that spent a great deal of time creating kits for the original DM10..you can try some of those.
Their posts in the Forum..The .syx files are in the last/final download.
I posted/uploaded everything in one zip file including the Editor as it was abandoned including all of the links.

 Introducing DMEditor (now version 1.1a and open source!)


EDIT:
Added images..Links

[Svist]

Thank you very much mate.

[Svist]

That is the Main Trigger OS..Check which Version you have to see which Hi Hat is supported .

The Final Versions[/b][/size]

DM10  Firmware Updates [posted 9/22/2014]
DM10 Updater 1.00
DM10_boot_v1.00h.syx
DM10-app-v1.00s.syx
DM10_triggers_V1.00a.syx (use with Realhat pedal)
DM10_triggers_V1.01b.syx (use with Alesis Pro-X Hi Hat)
DM10_sound_rom-V1.03.syx

Finally got my module delivered and was able to check the firmware.
That what it says:



Trigger OS is not updated, fortunately.

I want to buy Hi-hat stand mountable controller.
Those will work, will they?
Millenium MPS-850 Hi-Hat Controller V2
Lemon E Drum Hihat Controller

Although it is said "fits for Roland module" in the Lemon controller description, I have seen a video with it working fine, with splash sound etc. with DM10 module.



But! Millennium v2 controller is much quicker and cheaper to get for me. Will it perform the same as Lemon one?

[Chaser]

That is the Main Trigger OS..Check which Version you have to see which Hi Hat is supported .

The Final Versions

DM10  Firmware Updates [posted 9/22/2014]
DM10 Updater 1.00
DM10_boot_v1.00h.syx
DM10-app-v1.00s.syx
DM10_triggers_V1.00a.syx (use with Realhat pedal)
DM10_triggers_V1.01b.syx (use with Alesis Pro-X Hi Hat)
DM10_sound_rom-V1.03.syx

Finally got my module delivered and was able to check the firmware.
That what it says:



Trigger OS is not updated, fortunately.

I want to buy Hi-hat stand mountable controller.
Those will work, will they?
Millenium MPS-850 Hi-Hat Controller V2
Lemon E Drum Hihat Controller

Although it is said "fits for Roland module" in the Lemon controller description, I have seen a video with it working fine, with splash sound etc. with DM10 module.



But! Millennium v2 controller is much quicker and cheaper to get for me. Will it perform the same as Lemon one?

The Original DM10 has been discontinued for almost a Decade so it's going to be hard to see if more current Hi hat Controllers work with it..

It's getting difficult to keep up with Drum Manufactures and Re-Brands..especially since they can change the configuration/Firmware for anyone..design a different case and run limited production runs .

Millenium is using Modules from Multiple manufactures now...used to be mainly Medeli...and Millenium was basically  the European Version of Alesis Kits.

Millenium with Huaxin Module

MPS-1000 (M-019 MODULE)

MPS-750X (M-015 Module)

Millenium with Medeli Module.

MPS-450 (DD630)


MANUFACTURES

HUAXIN (HXM)

HXW (AVATAR)

MEDELI


Medeli manufactures/Re-Brands over 30 Modules...you can only find info for them in the downloads.

In this Topic..the V1 Hi Hat Controller (Powered Version) was not compatible with the Original DM10..(Open/Closed Only)

MPS 850 HH CONTROLLER DM10

The Reviews under the V2 (Non Powered version) you posted.. a user states works great..better than the VH11..on a STRIKE Module.

"it has solved the hihat problem of my alesis strike pro that not even Roland's Vh11 could fix. 100% RECOMMENDED"

The STRIKE Module Hi Hat is the Pro-X (FSR) Controller with a Dual Zone Cymbal..so his DM10 Module probably had the Pro-X update..unknown.

I have seen different Models for the Lemon HH Controller with the same description Alesis/Roland..no idea what the range is.

LEMON

HHCTRL/1811
Lemon Hi Hat Controller compatible for Roland, Pearl Mimic and Alesis Strike VH-10 VH-11.
*Not compatible with Alesis Nitro or Surge or mkii
Supports open and closed and variations of open closed. Also includes anti spin piece to go on bottom of clutch.

VH11/2301
New Hi Hat controller compatible with Roland VH-11 and VH-10 or any other top hat us?d in Roland Module.
Also tested on Alesis strike modules.. Also said to work well with Crimson 1 and 2 plus command.
*Not compatible with Alesis Nitro or Surge or mkii
Supports open and closed and variations of open closed. Also includes anti spin piece to go on bottom of clutch.

Bottom Line is there is No Definitive Answer...one HH Controller that works well for one user..may not for another.Trial and error

[Svist]

Bottom Line is there is No Definitive Answer...one HH Controller that works well for one user..may not for another.Trial and error

Thanks for the answer.
I thought lemon ones are all the same model actually, despite different numbering on a label. A friend of mine has two of theirs cymbals which are identical but have different numbers on them.
Anyway I decided to take first try with lemon. Just ordered one. Will see how it will go.


.

[Svist]

Trial and error

Eventually I bought both.

As I have been told by the Lemon guy Kenny they are making only one model, and it became shorter range this year. The label on the controller said VH11/2404



The controller has inside this resistance sensor bar. And the piston with small bearing, which is pressed to and slides along the sensor.



I measured resistance:
Open - 33 kOhm, Closed - 11 Ohm. The resistance is changing gradually from max to min.

Module measured 02-58 after calibration. It worked OK I guess, with all functions, splash etc., but a bit tricky to play. From my newbie drummer point of view And to get predictable and repeatable response I had to trim it 03-46 otherwise it was skipping some closing sounds occasionally. It is hard to get consistent sound when you just-just open the hat a little bit. 




The Millenium MPS-850 v2 controller appeared to have interesting design I have never seen before. It is not kinda fully continuous, but have like 8 fixed positions. It has a bunch of resistors inside and 8 switches that a activated by the pressure plate with flexible rubber tappers of different height.



The resistance changes stepwise:

Open - 60 MOhm
Step 1 - 55 kOhm
Step 2 - 25 kOhm
Step 3 - 15 kOhm
Step 4 - 10 kOhm
Step 5 - 5 kOhm
Step 6 - 3 kOhm
Step 7 - 1.5 kOhm
Full close - 25.5 Ohm

Module measured 02-99 during HH calibration.

And the resistance changes like with logarithmic curve of some kind. The steps 1-2-3 is like a 60-65% of a piston stroke range and the rest 40-35% of motion range are steps 4-5-6-7-full close. And it also gives all sounds it should, like click and splash.

This one I like way better with my DM10 despite its stepped nature. It feels better on the pedal and is much easier for me to operate it. I think I'll keep Lemon for later when I decide to upgrade the module and will use MPS850 with DM10 now. I found the build quality of Lemon controller is superior to Millenium, it has a solid metal alloy base and the plastic is sturdier. Millenium is a bit lightweight but Thomann gives 12M warranty so I guess It should last also.

[Chaser]

Trial and error

Eventually I bought both.

As I have been told by the Lemon guy Kenny they are making only one model, and it became shorter range this year. The label on the controller said VH11/2404



The controller has inside this resistance sensor bar. And the piston with small bearing, which is pressed to and slides along the sensor.



I measured resistance:
Open - 33 kOhm, Closed - 11 Ohm. The resistance is changing gradually from max to min.

Module measured 02-58 after calibration. It worked OK I guess, with all functions, splash etc., but a bit tricky to play. From my newbie drummer point of view And to get predictable and repeatable response I had to trim it 03-46 otherwise it was skipping some closing sounds occasionally. It is hard to get consistent sound when you just-just open the hat a little bit. 




The Millenium MPS-850 v2 controller appeared to have interesting design I have never seen before. It is not kinda fully continuous, but have like 8 fixed positions. It has a bunch of resistors inside and 8 switches that a activated by the pressure plate with flexible rubber tappers of different height.



The resistance changes stepwise:

Open - 60 MOhm
Step 1 - 55 kOhm
Step 2 - 25 kOhm
Step 3 - 15 kOhm
Step 4 - 10 kOhm
Step 5 - 5 kOhm
Step 6 - 3 kOhm
Step 7 - 1.5 kOhm
Full close - 25.5 Ohm

Module measured 02-99 during HH calibration.

And the resistance changes like with logarithmic curve of some kind. The steps 1-2-3 is like a 60-65% of a piston stroke range and the rest 40-35% of motion range are steps 4-5-6-7-full close. And it also gives all sounds it should, like click and splash.

This one I like way better with my DM10 despite its stepped nature. It feels better on the pedal and is much easier for me to operate it. I think I'll keep Lemon for later when I decide to upgrade the module and will use MPS850 with DM10 now. I found the build quality of Lemon controller is superior to Millenium, it has a solid metal alloy base and the plastic is sturdier. Millenium is a bit lightweight but Thomann gives 12M warranty so I guess It should last also.

Thanks for contributing/posting all of the info!
It is appreciated.

The Lemon is in the Roland Range..
I wouldn't have recommended a metal roller on a Linear Softpot..but there is a plastic sheet that looks to be a softer material than say..Lexan or Acrylic..to roll on and compress the softpot.Time will tell if a groove gets worn in and it loses some contact...I suppose you could put a thin tape over it like electrical tape if/when that occurs.

The Millenium V2 is in the Alesis/Medeli Range.
The Millenium V2 is a similar setup to the DMHat V2..both look to have a number of membranes switches with a separate resistor for each in a "Resistor Ladder".... a segmented Rubber actuator for the DMHat V2 since it's a pedal and a number of plungers? in varying lengths for the Millenium V2..are they all different?

It would have been interesting if you could rotate the rubber plate/cups and seen if there are different combinations..only time will tell on how long those (hollow) cups/plungers will flex repeatedly before finally wearing out or lose consistency..looks like the larger are going to be the most active and get the most wear..

The Millenium V2 would be interesting to work with the STRIKE Module as you can place samples anywhere you like in any ranges you create using the STRIKE Editor to create a Hi Hat Instrument.

[Svist]

I wouldn't have recommended a metal roller on a Linear Softpot..but there is a plastic sheet that looks to be a softer material than say..Lexan or Acrylic..to roll on and compress the softpot.Time will tell if a groove gets worn in and it loses some contact...I suppose you could put a thin tape over it like electrical tape if/when that occurs.

The material is a soft and elastic silicon alike rubber. Like they used to make old mobile phones keypads rubber parts of. I think Millenium controller tappers are made of kinda same material.
Apparently they are mimicking Roland. I have seen old Roland VH11 had black sponge like strips over the sensor (which they had wearing problems with) and newer ones have, I guess, the same semi-transparent silicon.
I've got self-adhesive Teflon cloth, this material is used for industrial conveyor belts coating, friction resistible. Was thinking of putting it on that strip, but looks like it is doing well by itself so far. I'll think again when start using it. Maybe I'll find plastic roller of the same size occasionally

The Millenium V2 is a similar setup to the DMHat V2

I have DMHat V2 left from my Nitro Max kit, now selling it. I don't like how it feels, it was hard for me to master. Maybe because the spring is too loose.
And definitely it's nothing in compare with HH on a stand.

and a number of plungers? in varying lengths for the Millenium V2..are they all different?

Yes they all of different height and activate switches one by one sequentially.

It would have been interesting if you could rotate the rubber plate/cups and seen if there are different combinations..

I think it is possible to detach it and glue back but it could be a mess, because switches are activated not clockwise or counterclockwise but from opposite sides, like when you are tightening your drum heads or car wheel bolts.

[Chaser]

I have DMHat V2 left from my Nitro Max kit, now selling it. I don't like how it feels, it was hard for me to master. Maybe because the spring is too loose.
And definitely it's nothing in compare with HH on a stand.

I didn't care much for the pedal as far as Factory issued and I already had previous experience with V1 so I knew what to expect as far as "Feel" , so it took a while to obtain one for testing etc.. cheap (couple years) as there was no way I was going to spend $100 on a new one...or $50+ for a used one plus shipping.
The body being plastic and the Metal Top being high made it Top Heavy and if on any surface other than velcro to carpet during pedal/spring travel it had a tendency to bounce/flop around.

The DMHat V2 is supposedly "Fixed" with 2 threaded holes on the Metal piece that presses down on the Rubber Actuator..however you can take out the pedal  travel and adjust it down...
Bottom Screw to Top Hole and there is just enough clearance for the Hi Hat Pedal to still be full open..just make sure it's level/parallel to the Rubber Actuator as the 2 holes were basically for attachment and alignment.
It may vary pedal to pedal depending on the segmented section variance/shrinking etc etc...you'll know in a moment if the pedal remains  Full open or partially closed after the adjustment..I don't believe there were that strict tolerances during manufacturing.

EDIT:
Added Images.

[Svist]

it took a while to obtain one for testing etc.. cheap (couple years) as there was no way I was going to spend $100 on a new one...or $50+ for a used one plus shipping.

The pricing for separate parts is ridiculous. They are selling snake cable for Nitro at 90 EUR on Thomann!
It's the second most expensive snake cable they have, Roland is lagging way behind with only 50

I've just sold my DMHat for 36$ on local marketplace.

[Svist]

Thanks for contributing/posting all of the info!

Occasionally I came across some slide resistors that looked very much like the ones used in Go-Edrum controller. And a free 3D model of HH controller made especially for those resistors. So here it is





I bought 100K resistors to check how it will work. Works perfectly. I recorded a small video, sorry, I've started drumming very recently and use HH mostly closed as for now, so don't judge too strictly
Not sure how long this resistor will last for, will see

Here you can find 3D models for printing and some links for the parts to buy.