Kick Sounds not working correctly

[edamsterdam]

Greetings to all again...

Have someone had the problem where the kick sounds were not coming thru the headphones?

I tried connecting a tom pad to the kick input because I still don't have a new kick pad nor the cable splitter to test the switch store HH pedal.

The hits register on the module, but there's no way I can turn up the kick volume even if i try the slider of the trigger settings.

I haven't checked if the problem is also affecting the regular outputs because I don't have anything to connect in those outputs.

I am hoping that because the kick pad is controlled by the pedal beater hitting, a regular pad hit with a drumstick is not the same force expected by the pad.

Can the module have a specific problem generating the kick sounds?

I don't know what else to do...

changed the sensitivity to high
haven't found the setting to change the kit on the module to mesh.... originally had the rubber pads, now I have the mesh pads with the sensitivity knob.

Thanks in advance,
Ed

[edamsterdam]

Is the mesh kick pad the same as a regular mesh pad?

[Chaser]

Greetings to all again...

Have someone had the problem where the kick sounds were not coming thru the headphones?

I tried connecting a tom pad to the kick input because I still don't have a new kick pad nor the cable splitter to test the switch store HH pedal.

The hits register on the module, but there's no way I can turn up the kick volume even if i try the slider of the trigger settings.

I haven't checked if the problem is also affecting the regular outputs because I don't have anything to connect in those outputs.

I am hoping that because the kick pad is controlled by the pedal beater hitting, a regular pad hit with a drumstick is not the same force expected by the pad.

Can the module have a specific problem generating the kick sounds?

I don't know what else to do...

changed the sensitivity to high
haven't found the setting to change the kit on the module to mesh.... originally had the rubber pads, now I have the mesh pads with the sensitivity knob.

Thanks in advance,
Ed

You should include information like which module etc in your post otherwise if someone wants to help they have to go to your profile and read through your previous posts..

I presume you still have a DM6 module?..
1st thing to check is the switch on the back set for the proper kick type..

DM6 KICK TYPE SWITCH

[edamsterdam]

My bad....
I am referring to a Alesis DM10 module. I'm not using the DM6 anymore.

I bought mesh pads with the sensitivity knob
but I still don't have a kick pad.

[Chaser]

If the hits are registering then it's triggering.
Raise the level in the Instrument/Voice setting..

The mesh heads with the "sensitivity" knob have (2) Piezos for the Head...Inner and Outer
The knob balances the Inner and Outer Piezos..

Are you able to adjust the sensitivity of the mesh head trigger?
 The new Alesis mesh drum heads includes an added physical knob to adjust the sensitivity of the piezo pickups inside of the head. The knob adjust how much the DM10 module will respond to the inner vs. outer pickups inside of the head.
Additionally, there are many other settings in the module which can further help you cater your heads to match your playing style.

 Why does the sensitivity knob only slightly affect the response when I turn it?
Depending on the current velocity curve setting for your trigger on the DM10 module, the sensitivity adjustment knob will affect the head differently. If it seems like the sensitivity adjustment knob is not affecting the mesh head, try setting the velocity curve for the mesh pad to a different setting, such as Linear in the DM10 module. 
 
Do this by pressing the EXT TRIG button, and then press the F3 button.  Press NOTE CHASE on the DM10 module, and then strike the trigger you would like to edit.
Use the up and down arrows to select the velocity curve parameter and turn the wheel to select Linear.

Check  the  DM10 - SETUP GUIDE    that brings you through setting up your sensitivity settings properly, as well as many other features.

There is no module setting to switch to mesh...you have to check the module current firmware and update to mesh if needed.
If you need to do the update use the final version 9/22/2014 under downloads DM10 X Mesh

You also need to decide if you are going to use the Realhat pedal or an FSR type(Pro-X(single zone),STRIKE(dual zone) use the same controller).
You can update later to the Pro-X (FSR) but you cannot downgrade back to Realhat.You cannot downgrade the DM10 once upgraded..

https://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6828.msg46846#msg46846

UPDATING DM10 FIRMWARE

DM10 X Kit Mesh FAQ

DM10 ADDITIONAL

EDIT:
I changed/updated all the links as after checking... the Alesis links have had the videos removed.

[edamsterdam]

Thank You

I would like to avoid the ProX hat because of budget.
At this moment I am using the HH pad and controller pedal that originally came with the DM6 and the 2 single zone cymbals in the future I want to upgrade to the real hat.

In the future I will add 1 or 2 Roland Octapads that I own, that's the reason I'm not losing any sleep about the single zone cymbals.

I will go back into the trigger settings and the instrument edit to recheck all the volumes.
Yes the tom pad that I am testing the kick sound is registering on the module but I can barely listen to it. I tested different cables.

My file versions are:
Trig OS v1.00a
Sound Rom v1.03
Sound OS v1.00m

I discovered that everything that is panned to the middle gets affected like the kick sound... it registers but can barely be heard.  When I change the panning from the center to the left or to the right;  I can listen to the sound being triggered.  There is no notable change in what side the sound is coming from when I change this setting.  Volume goes up either L or R once the numbers start to go up.  If i go back to Mid the problem returns.

My headphones are stereo.

[edamsterdam]

I'm guessing that other DM10 users have panning control of the sounds and can move them from left to right...

I need to buy cables or an adapter to check the main and the aux outputs because my gut is telling me that someone changed the headphone output to mono.

[Chaser]

I'm guessing that other DM10 users have panning control of the sounds and can move them from left to right...

I need to buy cables or an adapter to check the main and the aux outputs because my gut is telling me that someone changed the headphone output to mono.

So it's not just the kick...
From what I remember the headphones were loud and clear as long as you had a decent full size pair..no adapters..no earbuds etc.

Sound OS v1.00m..is extremely old...maybe even the original (2009)..there were issues back then...if I remember correctly some modules also had a "Tom 1" issue. ..10 years ago is hard to remember...the update from 08/2014 was "r" for Mylar Heads and final 09/2014 (app) is "s" for Mesh.
I highly recommend you update the module before starting to look for things to fix.

Here is a post where a member went from "m" to "p" in 2011
https://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=2047.msg15192#msg15192

EDIT:
Since Alesis removed the video from the instruction page for updating ..use this post.
https://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=8476.msg53994#msg53994
I also included the additional instructions for those that had downgraded the Hi Hat back to Realhat and ended up with a blank screen as you can't see when the module prompts to reboot.

You can also use the Manual..pg 32
DM10 Reference Manual Rev C
One thing new owners forget is to turn off write protection..Manual pg 2

[edamsterdam]

ok I'll try the update
thank you

[edamsterdam]

Updated to
Trig OS v1.00a
Sound Rom v1.03
Sound OS v1.00s

Still the same problem

If an instrument is panned to Mid (central panning)
I barely can hear it.

If I change the panning to L or R as the numbers increase so does the volume.

The positioning of the sounds doesn't change to left or right.

Headphones are Boss QuietComfort 35 series 2;
Turned off and connected by a cable.

Thank You

[Chaser]

Updated to
Trig OS v1.00a
Sound Rom v1.03
Sound OS v1.00s

Still the same problem

If an instrument is panned to Mid (central panning)
I barely can hear it.

If I change the panning to L or R as the numbers increase so does the volume.

The positioning of the sounds doesn't change to left or right.

Headphones are Boss QuietComfort 35 series 2;
Turned off and connected by a cable.

Thank You

Did you mean BOSE ?..
I see the replacement audio connector cable for these has an inline mic
Is the audio connector cable TRS on one end and TRRS ?
"Smart" headphones or earpods etc with inline mics don't work.

There are (2) different TRRS wirings..so using adapters gets problematic.

The older OMTP wiring standard calls for Tip to be used for left audio, Ring 1 to be used for right audio, ring 2 to be used for microphone, and the sleeve to be used for ground.
The newer CTIA/AHJ wiring standard reverses the last two mentioned, so it calls for Tip to be used for left audio, Ring 1 to be used for right audio, ring 2 to be used for ground, and the sleeve to be used for microphone.(Apple, HTC, latest Nokia, latest Samsung, Jolla, Sony (Dualshock 4), Microsoft (including Surface, Lumia, and XboxOne controller with chat adapter) and most Android phones.)

I don't know which wiring BOSE uses but probably the newest.


Do you have just a regular set of headphones to check with?

[edamsterdam]

no....i will have to buy some other headphone that is not as expensive as the Bose

these ones don't have the microphone on the cable, it's integrated into the headphone

can't upload the connector photo
it has only 2 black lines, it is a
regular stereo connector, exactly as the stereo cables in the module.

it isn't mono with only one black line
and it isn't microphone integrated on the cable (those have 3 black lines)

but it is the original headphone cable with a 1/8 connector and a 1/4 adapter that came with the headphones...

[Chaser]

no....i will have to buy some other headphone that is not as expensive as the Bose

these ones don't have the microphone on the cable, it's integrated into the headphone

can't upload the connector photo
it has only 2 black lines, it is a
regular stereo connector, exactly as the stereo cables in the module.

it isn't mono with only one black line
and it isn't microphone integrated on the cable (those have 3 black lines)

but it is the original headphone cable with a 1/8 connector and a 1/4 adapter that came with the headphones...

The cable is TRS then...there were users that had trouble with adapters before.
Since the sound is not just cutting out,not mono only, software has been eliminated, it's down to the headphones or the jack which was why I asked about a regular set for a quick check,if the problem remains then the jack could be damaged, loose..dirty connections etc etc.
Since it was a used module you don't know how it was treated or where kept.
The old firmware indicates it wasn't used much or the owner just never checked for updates but in 10 years time I am pretty sue users have done at least one update.
Have you tried cleaning the headphone output?..(compressed air )
Some times impedance plays a role.
Use the SEARCH in the upper left and you/ll see quite a few topics in regards to headphones

[edamsterdam]

hello again

at the moment I don't have compressed air to clean the headphone output jack

i will try to find stereo headphones without a microphone and with a 1/4" connector to avoid the adapter, also some cables or adapters to test the main and aux outputs...

if the problem is also happening in the main/aux outputs then we can rule out the headphone jack

 thank you again