Author Topic: Hi Hat pedal 5 min fix (Read 29430 times)

evilcartman · « **Reply #25 on:** April 24, 2012, 06:38:43 AM »

When you think about it, the bigger problem really isn't that gap. That could represent the same "lag" you get before the 2 hats actually touch on a real stand.

The problem is the small amount of travel the actual trigger has.

Trondster · « **Reply #26 on:** April 24, 2012, 07:05:58 AM »

The problem is - in my opinion - just that gap. When you have a real hihat-pedal you get physical feedback from the pedal when the cymbals connect, and it is hard to do that by wire. With a physical pedal you get more of a feel from the pedal - here you have to hit the hihat and listen to the sound variation - that's the only feedback you get..

And it does of course not help that the travel is short..

Stagecustom · « **Reply #27 on:** April 24, 2012, 03:12:16 PM »

Even if that gap isnt the problem, i found it helped alot with the response of the pedal [compared to before]

gorgatron · « **Reply #28 on:** April 25, 2012, 05:12:26 AM »

okay - thanks for the replies, and i've been following along with the now more expanded discussion of placing something like a shim, or attaching something to the plate's bottom piece to close the gap.

after i checked out the one- and two-screw methods again, and looking at the plate position on my own disassembled pedal, i, too, went with just the one screw.

i thought i had some thin foam that was adhesive on one side, but it's no longer to be found. the only other bits of foam were too thick, so i just used the softer velcro tape that came with my guitar effects pedal board.

i just cut two small pieces and affixed them to the bottom. i noticed that there is still a bit of a gap, but the trigger reacts quicker than before. not much travel either, when compared to before. it will take me a while to determine if it's "good" or "bad." if it tightens things up a bit, and gives the resulting sound a more natural flow, even if it's perfect, i'll be pleased with the improvement. i'll report anything worth report, and for now just say thanks!

i'm tried to attach pictures so you see the material i used and how i just stacked two strips - but i keep getting an error, and it's an old camera, nothing fancy like some users

. i may try again, but basically, i cut away much of the velcro material to a thinner stubble on the first layer, and left the second layer as it was after applying it. i think it will hold well over time...but we'll see.

inconn · « **Reply #29 on:** April 25, 2012, 07:25:03 AM »

Honestly, after doing the "one-screw mod", I'm much more pleased with the way my hihat works, and i don't get nearly as much missed splashes and sizzles.

Try it!

gorgatron · « **Reply #30 on:** April 25, 2012, 07:01:50 PM »

Quote from: inconn on April 25, 2012, 07:25:03 AM

Honestly, after doing the "one-screw mod", I'm much more pleased with the way my hihat works, and i don't get nearly as much missed splashes and sizzles.

Try it!

after making the conversion, it seems i have little other choice than to do just that! lol i'm'm sure reducing the space that must be traveled from 1-2 cm down to 2-3 mm will make a big difference in trigger response, since it simply has to, which i then assume gives it more of the feel and reaction of a real hi-hat pedal. that's what i took from everyone's comments, and after the modification, it makes perfect sense that it would. i'll be trying it out in a few hours, and am very curious.

GeorgePattonIII · « **Reply #31 on:** April 25, 2012, 11:40:09 PM »

I just did the fix and found the improvement to be dramatic. The feel is more realistic and there are fewer missed notes. Considering how easy it is to do, there really is no downside.

Great idea, Greaserock!

Robdrums · « **Reply #32 on:** July 27, 2012, 06:26:36 AM »

Hi all,

I have just come over from the Pearl forums. I have an Epro kit which has the same module as the DM10. I am also not happy with the way the Hi Hat pedal works, it's quite pathetic.
In regards to the pedals, the pearl seems to be a little different in construction, but very similar. The pearl model does not seem to be as easily modifiable as the Alesis pedal. I can not remove the bent rigthangle bracket from the front top of the pedal as it is held on with a rivoted shaft and one screw. There is 2 screw holes though which is the same as the Alesis. The bracket under the pedal is also different, it is a triangular shape, where as the Alesis seems to be more of another rightangle bracket.
Now the only solution that I can see to fix mine is either attach some sort of pad under the triangle bracket OR use a demidrill and grind out the slot where the bracket height adjustment is.
Does anyone else here have the same pedal?
Cheers,
Rob

Hellfire · « **Reply #33 on:** July 27, 2012, 09:46:25 AM »

Quote from: Robdrums on July 27, 2012, 06:26:36 AM

Hi all,

I have just come over from the Pearl forums. I have an Epro kit which has the same module as the DM10. I am also not happy with the way the Hi Hat pedal works, it's quite pathetic.
In regards to the pedals, the pearl seems to be a little different in construction, but very similar. The pearl model does not seem to be as easily modifiable as the Alesis pedal. I can not remove the bent rigthangle bracket from the front top of the pedal as it is held on with a rivoted shaft and one screw. There is 2 screw holes though which is the same as the Alesis. The bracket under the pedal is also different, it is a triangular shape, where as the Alesis seems to be more of another rightangle bracket.
Now the only solution that I can see to fix mine is either attach some sort of pad under the triangle bracket OR use a demidrill and grind out the slot where the bracket height adjustment is.
Does anyone else here have the same pedal?
Cheers,
Rob

Welcome to the forum Rob. Pearl Epro Live people are always welcome. I wish I could get more of you guys over here seeing that the DM10 and REDbox are so similar.

As for your pedal, is it possible for you to upload pictures of your controller pedal? If you do, make sure the pictures are 600kb or less (limitation of the server we use). Seeing your pedal might make it easier for some of us to come up with ideas that can help you out. Again, welcome to the forum.

Robdrums · « **Reply #34 on:** July 28, 2012, 07:59:07 PM »

G'day Hellfire,

I will download some pictures, if you need anymore let me know.

Robdrums · « **Reply #35 on:** July 28, 2012, 08:02:59 PM »

The screw (drum key type) is adjustable. This makes that triagnle bracket move up and down that righthand bracket that is pinned onto the pedal board, but only by about 6mm (1/4'') if that!

Robdrums · « **Reply #36 on:** July 28, 2012, 08:05:49 PM »

This picture is with the screw removed from the pedal. It is held on by 1 screw (phillips head type or star type screwdriver to be used). There are 2 threaded holes here BUT you can only use 1 as the righthand bracket is pinned to the pedal board and can not be adjusted unless it is removed.

Robdrums · « **Reply #37 on:** July 28, 2012, 08:20:30 PM »

This is the picture looking inside where the trigger is. That traingle shape rubber is the actual depression pad for the trigger circuitry. When assembled the minimun gap you can get between the traingle bracket and the rubber pad is aprox 1/4'' (6.34mm). The only way i can see to adjust this is to grind the slot out more where the drum key screw goes. This will let the triangle bracket rest on the rubber pad, hence giving me a more direct control and feel.
Something I also noticed is that at the bottom of the righthand bracket it has a 90 degree short bend in it. This stops the pedal board coming out when released. When it is released that small bracket end rests on a rubber pad (for noise control I imagine) I guess putting a thicker pad here would also force the triangle bracket down more, the only drawback would be that the pedal board would sit a little flatter in position. This would not suit a player like myself I like a bit of angle on my pedals.
I will take it to work this week and apply my method adjustment to see what happens. If you have any advice don't be shy in letting me know

.
I really think that this pedal is a bit of a shocker, I seems very cheap and nasty, I do hope they bring out a better system. I am use to the yamaha trigger pedals and they work flawlessly and smoothly. The other thing I may try is modifying the yamaha circuitry to use on the pearl.

Cheers
Rob

Trondster · « **Reply #38 on:** July 29, 2012, 01:31:57 AM »

What about fastening something to the bracket to fill out the gap? If so, you could (for example) glue a thin piece of wood or similar to the bracket, causing the bracket to rest (or almost rest) on the rubber trigger.

Hellfire · « **Reply #39 on:** July 29, 2012, 06:13:03 PM »

Quote from: Trondster on July 29, 2012, 01:31:57 AM

What about fastening something to the bracket to fill out the gap? If so, you could (for example) glue a thin piece of wood or similar to the bracket, causing the bracket to rest (or almost rest) on the rubber trigger.

I was thinking the same thing, but instead of glue I would use a double sided tape. Another thing you could try is using a rubber foot pad as a spacer. Something like this:

They come in different sizes and can be found at hardware stores or sometime electronic shops. They have adhesive on the one side so you wouldn't have to mess with glue or tape. Just an idea. Heck, you could probably use a felt pad as well:

They work the same as the rubber feet.

AsMyBrideBurns · « **Reply #40 on:** July 29, 2012, 06:55:19 PM »

Just did this mod and works like a charm, so much more control. I love it!

Robdrums · « **Reply #41 on:** July 30, 2012, 04:20:27 AM »

I have actually got some of those furniture leg pads in the cupboard, I'll give them ago first. I was trying to get away from tape and glue to do something more solid that I know won't fail. I guess if the pad system works I know my method will work before I slot out holes. Thanks guys!

Robdrums · « **Reply #42 on:** August 01, 2012, 04:57:18 AM »

Ok good news, I attached a strip of felt guard to the triangle bracket. This made the gap between the bracket and the trigger pad 0. It feel really nice now. The hihat actually response like a hihat should.
Now the next problem, is there anyway to adjust the level that the hihat click sound makes (eg closing the hats with foot), without changing the other levels of the hats?

darrenw2112 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 01, 2012, 08:24:22 AM »

I have the dm10 pro kit and also used felt feet. It worked great for me as well.
Unfortunately, I do not think there is anyway to adjust the click sound.

drglnc · « **Reply #44 on:** August 05, 2012, 04:16:26 AM »

I just received my dm10x a few weeks ago and have been getting it dialed in. The hihat pedal was killing me and then I found this thread! I tried to move the bracket under like you all have but it did not change the gap at all, I then realized it is because of the spring. So I took a few zip ties/wire cables and squeezed a few of the spring coils together and boom! Perfect response. With this method you can adjust the gap by how tight you pull the zip ties and if need be you can just cut them off and your back to factory original.

Pressman52 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 17, 2012, 11:42:48 AM »

This is what I did to the Hi Hat plate that has the drum screw in it. I drilled two holes in it below the slot then took my dremel to make a slot so I could put the striker just touching the trigger. Seems to work a lot better.

When i play I lift my foot just a little off the pedal and then slam my foot back down hard.lol

Michael

Should this be under a new topic? If so could someone move it. Thanks

Giffo · « **Reply #46 on:** September 17, 2012, 04:35:48 AM »

Quote from: Greaserock on March 03, 2012, 10:03:59 PM

I was going crazy trying to get this dm-10 pedal to respond like a real pedal. After a closer look, i realized the issue. Its mechanical not an electrical problem. Here is my simple solution. The pedal travel has about a half inch gap between pedal travel and trigger activation. My solution is to take the bracket that is bolted to the top of the foot pedal and reverse it to mount under the footboard. The responsiveness is perfect!

Glad I found this post as I too do not like the lack of response of the hi hat pedal out of the box.
I gigged my DM10 kit for the first time (previously posted) and found the kit performed very well except for a few minor adjustments, but the baggy response of the pedal really pee'd me off!
This modification really looks simple and the results seem to be nothing but perfect.
I'll give it a go, thanks.

Giffo · « **Reply #47 on:** September 18, 2012, 12:40:49 PM »

Carried out the modification today, easy job.
Managed to get the two screws fixed to the bracket by undoing the heel plate from the base plate (two cross heads). Allows you to work on the foot board alone. You can easily hold screws with screw driver while doing the nuts up with 10mm spanner (new nut and spring washer to the second screw)
All works fine.

mbertrand · « **Reply #48 on:** December 06, 2012, 08:34:04 AM »

I did the mod also and of course mechanically it got ride of this gap BUT,
if I take any midi utility that will display the input values nothing shows up until the pedal is pressed at least maybe half way down. I did calibration and played with trim. For example if your using BFD2 and your in the screen for mapping you can see the midi values your pedal is sending and nothing is generated until pressed half way. Can someone please try this? Thanks.

Trondster · « **Reply #49 on:** December 06, 2012, 09:24:51 AM »

Try pressing the pedal partially down at various positions while using the calibration function. Find out where the "open" point starts changing. As well - check which pedal curve you are using.