Author Topic: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion  (Read 2737 times)

DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« on: September 29, 2016, 10:59:22 AM »
Hey everybody pardon my ignorance. I see a lot about moding the various Mylar kits to mesh, but I am unclear if there is any benefit to modifying the "studio mesh" kit. Does response or reliability improve by "flipping the sandwich" like on the Mylar kits or is the kit fine as is, assuming I tweak the settings. Mine will be here early next week so I don't have it yet. And while I have you, what is the best value for replacement heads for the studio mesh?

Offline rhysT

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2016, 03:19:40 AM »
I see a lot about moding the various Mylar kits to mesh, but I am unclear if there is any benefit to modifying the "studio mesh" kit. Does response or reliability improve by "flipping the sandwich" like on the Mylar kits or is the kit fine as is, assuming I tweak the settings. Mine will be here early next week so I don't have it yet. And while I have you, what is the best value for replacement heads for the studio mesh?

FYI, the included pic shows the original Mylar-head pad on the left and the newer Mesh-head trigger config on the right, so 'sandwich flipping' isn't an option. Also check out a mesh heads comparison in this mag: https://issuu.com/digitaldrummer/docs/digtaldrummer_april2010 and do a search here for advice.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 06:02:12 AM by rhysT »

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2016, 10:34:00 PM »
Thanks for the input. I am assuming because of the change there is no way or benefit to adding foam like in the sandwich flip hellfire method?

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2016, 08:01:10 AM »
I see a lot about moding the various Mylar kits to mesh, but I am unclear if there is any benefit to modifying the "studio mesh" kit. Does response or reliability improve by "flipping the sandwich" like on the Mylar kits or is the kit fine as is, assuming I tweak the settings. Mine will be here early next week so I don't have it yet. And while I have you, what is the best value for replacement heads for the studio mesh?

FYI, the included pic shows the original Mylar-head pad on the left and the newer Mesh-head trigger config on the right, so 'sandwich flipping' isn't an option. Also check out a mesh heads comparison in this mag: https://issuu.com/digitaldrummer/docs/digtaldrummer_april2010 and do a search here for advice.

rhysT

Where on earth to you find these images?.. You must possess greater Google skills than I. :)

The Crimson kit looks like this from the outside.



Looks to me there are 10 rubber rods. 4 like your image above and a further 6 around (I can only see 3 of that six in the image above. The rest are estimated)

After the success of the bass drum mod I did, i am keen to have 'yet another' crack at my drum pads. At the moment I have to wind up the heads so darn tight to get a consistent response all over the head and over that cumbersome  metal plate with the plastic disk/piezo arrangement.
 
I plan to take the metal plate out of one of the pads and try something like the image you posted above, or what the Crimson kit looks like.

Don't suppose you have a link to the internals of the Crimson pads? Anyone have a link to that?

I feel another DIY project brewing..

Offline rhysT

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2016, 01:16:57 AM »
Hey Dobly, for some more info check out the attached pic and InMusic patent diagrams (http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6440.msg46482#msg46482).

Apparently those pads include a potentiometer to control the 'sweet-spot' area of the head by varying a mix of trigger levels from 2 piezo (inner & outer) sensors. So good luck trying to simulate that sort of effect.

I'm satisfied with the even trigger response from my DM10 pads with just a central piezo sensor and 4 rubber rods. 
« Last Edit: October 04, 2016, 01:51:29 AM by rhysT »

Online AlanK

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2016, 11:54:48 AM »
Wow, that image just gave me an idea! You can buy packs of those yellow ear plugs fairly cheap.. maybe try three or four of them on top of the piezo, or add some around like the new mesh setup.. but mostly just an option perhaps for people doing a cone type convert if you don't want to spend a ton of money on the cones, or if you can't make decent ones yourself
DM10X with Addictive Drums 2, Pro X hi-hat, 4 crashes, foam cone conversion w Roland mesh heads, Laurin Drums snare and kick, Mapex P710W double kick pedal, Mapex 2 legged hi-hat, Behringer 8 channel USB mixer, Tascam 144MK AI, Samson Expedition Escape powered speakers

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2016, 07:00:16 PM »
Wow, that image just gave me an idea! You can buy packs of those yellow ear plugs fairly cheap.. maybe try three or four of them on top of the piezo, or add some around like the new mesh setup.. but mostly just an option perhaps for people doing a cone type convert if you don't want to spend a ton of money on the cones, or if you can't make decent ones yourself

Interesting idea AlanK. I do wonder however if those earbuds would rebound quick enough. You know how when you squish one they take some time to return to original shape.


Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2016, 07:34:53 PM »
Hey Dobly, for some more info check out the attached pic and InMusic patent diagrams (http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6440.msg46482#msg46482).

Apparently those pads include a potentiometer to control the 'sweet-spot' area of the head by varying a mix of trigger levels from 2 piezo (inner & outer) sensors. So good luck trying to simulate that sort of effect.

I'm satisfied with the even trigger response from my DM10 pads with just a central piezo sensor and 4 rubber rods.

Thanks for digging out that image rhysT. Man that would be a hard design to replicate.

I would love to a satisfied with my pads. Just the other week I bought new foam and did like the Gerdy mod on my pads. The pads worked pretty good but I did not like how tight I had to have the  head. Without the head super tight there were dead patches.

After the success of the bass drum mod I did...
http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6785.0
 I had the idea for something similar for the pads. Some system were you don't hit a metal plate directly even if it is under a bit of foam.

Not only that but I had just one band rehearsal with the pads. Maybe 3 hours of playing. When I pulled the snare pad (12") apart last night I found that the foam on the top had deteriorated. Around the center the foam where I had been thrashing my snare drum had lost all it's resistance. It had become soft and pointless. This would diminish it's ability to transmit the power from the stroke to the metal plate.  Would always work for harder hit, but I could see a time where the foam under the head was inconsistent and not playing the softer hits.

Last night, inspired the Crimson image I posted above (and before I saw the image from rhysT)  I dismantled one of my pads. Took out the original metal plate and made a new one. About half the thickness.

Then i attached and wired up a new piezo on it. 

I then cut a slice of K-Flex in to 4 bits and cut them to sit around 2mm higher than the bearing edge. Note, for those that don't know. My 12" and 10" shells are taller than normal. See how I used embroidery hoops to increase the shell size in this thread.
http://www.alesisdrummer.com/index.php?topic=6685.0




I've not tried it yet. I finished this around 11.30pm last night. I'll give it a play tonight. I think I'll find that I can do without the outer bits and just have the 4 center bits.

Where do you get rods of rubber from? What industry uses rods of rubber? I'd rather have nice looking rods than my sliced up K-Flex.

« Last Edit: October 04, 2016, 07:39:13 PM by Dobly »

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2016, 11:36:59 PM »
Wow, that image just gave me an idea! You can buy packs of those yellow ear plugs fairly cheap.. maybe try three or four of them on top of the piezo, or add some around like the new mesh setup.. but mostly just an option perhaps for people doing a cone type convert if you don't want to spend a ton of money on the cones, or if you can't make decent ones yourself

A quick Google ....



These are a hairdressing thing.. They come in a variety of thicknesses and COLORS.. ;)

Online AlanK

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2016, 08:26:08 AM »
Those rods look perfect, Dobly. Cut them to the length you need, choose your colour.. awesome. My first mesh mod on another older ekit was pretty hackish.. these would have made it look better and likely play better. And I agree with the comment on those ear plugs I posted, they do have that slow expanding characteristic so may not have enough rebound to them.
DM10X with Addictive Drums 2, Pro X hi-hat, 4 crashes, foam cone conversion w Roland mesh heads, Laurin Drums snare and kick, Mapex P710W double kick pedal, Mapex 2 legged hi-hat, Behringer 8 channel USB mixer, Tascam 144MK AI, Samson Expedition Escape powered speakers

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2016, 05:58:39 PM »
I asked the wife about these rods. She has never used them but had the feeling they have a metal rod inside them which helps with bending them to the shape you need..

mmmm.... wonder if that can be removed. I'll buy one in a day or so and check it out.

Offline Dobly

Re: DM10 Studio Mesh Mod Confusion
« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2016, 06:07:56 PM »
Oh, and i tried the pad last night.. It is darn near perfect. I'll decide after i try it with just the 4 middle rods. Either way this mod seems a good thing.

What I'm liking about it is that I can play the pad as hard or soft as I like, with as much run up as i like, and there is no risk of hitting the metal plate. Something I hated as a player.  Plus is removes the system of striking the peizo directly or rather the metal that the peizo is attached to.